I really need some help deciding on this...

[Ridgerunner665]

Glass bedding my rifle...

I want it bedded, but I'm a little skeptical of doing it myself...having never done it before. And I'm not sure which route to go...action only, or action and a few inches of barrel.

I believe Scotty has done this on a few M70's...Any advice would be appreciated.

And is a Dremel necessary, or could one get by with sandpaper and small files?

 

[DrMike]

Are you thinking of skim bedding? Or pillar bedding? Skim bedding is relatively simple. Pillar bedding is relatively simple on a wooden or fibre glass stock, especially if you take care preparing the stock for the pillars. Laminate is somewhat more demanding for pillar bedding. I take it from the phrasing of your query that you are thinking of skim bedding, which can be straight forward. If you are incautious with a Dremel, it is far better to use sandpaper and small files. If you have a light hand with the Dremel, things can go very quickly, making the job reasonably easy.

 

[Ridgerunner665]

The stock already has pillars installed from McMillan...skim bedding is what I'm asking about, as well as maybe just bedding the recoil lug.

 

[meatmachineman]

I did the recoil lugs and under the chamber on a walnut M70 featherweight stock. It was my first bedding job and it went pretty smoothly. If I opt to do another rifle, there are a few things I might do a bit differently, but that would be mainly for looks and tidiness when the action is out of the stock.

I went without a dremel. Blue tape and release agent was my friend. Let us know if you decide to proceed. Seeing the reports of the process from guys like Tom and Scotty prompted me to give it a whirl and was glad I did. There are plenty of tips and tricks they offered that helped me out.

 

[Ridgerunner665]

Thanks...

I am gonna do it...just not sure yet "what" I'm gonna bed.

 

[JMUPT]

Here is a link to a thread on 24hourcampfire (i hope it's ok to post this) http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthread ... ost3003214

It has good instructions and I thought the pics were very helpfull. I have bought all the supplies needed, but haven't worked up the courage to do it myself.

 

[Ridgerunner665]

Here is the jist of what I've come up with so far...I'll use MarineTex.

The Dremel would make it much easier to remove some material from the stock to allow for a thicker bedding.

Do not mess with the pillars, they dictate how high or low the action sits in the stock.

Leave a bit of a "lip" at the top edge of the stock so the bedding is "locked" in.

Use plenty of release agent, and don't forget to coat the action screws.

Tape the stock so it doesn't get bedding where you don't want it.

I'm not sure about bedding in front of the recoil lug (2-4")...some say yes, some say no.

 

[FOTIS]

Which rifle?

 

[Ridgerunner665]

The M70...my 30-06 with the McMillan stock/

 

[FOTIS]

Easy bro. Go on you tube and see how it is done.

I have done dozens

 

[Ridgerunner665]

I have watched about 10-15 videos on it...I think I can do it, if I can just make up my mind exactly what I need to do, LOL.

 

[pre6422hornet]

Marine tex is great stuff. I have used accraglass, accraglass gel, and marine tex and the marine tex is my favorite. It has a peanut butter consistency, so it does not run all over and you can "paint" it where it needs to go.

 

[IdahoCTD]

I typically do a inch or two ahead of the lug on light weight sporters and more on heavier barrels. It just depends on the flat section of the barrel. Release agent is your friend. Be anal and coat everything twice or 3 times. I usually remove the barreled action in 6 to 8 hours when the bedding is hard yet somewhat flexible. If you wait longer it's just harder to remove especially if you bed the recoil lug tight. I tape off the sides and front of the lug so the barreled action goes in and out of stock easier. It's also easier to trim up the bedding that runs into areas like the magazine well and trigger well when it's just a little soft still.

 

[SJB358]

I typically do a inch or two ahead of the lug on light weight sporters and more on heavier barrels. It just depends on the flat section of the barrel. Release agent is your friend. Be anal and coat everything twice or 3 times. I usually remove the barreled action in 6 to 8 hours when the bedding is hard yet somewhat flexible. If you wait longer it's just harder to remove especially if you bed the recoil lug tight. I tape off the sides and front of the lug so the barreled action goes in and out of stock easier. It's also easier to trim up the bedding that runs into areas like the magazine well and trigger well when it's just a little soft still.

Everything Nathan said here is gospel to me. Pretty easy job, it sounds alot harder than it really is.

 

[Ridgerunner665]

If I can find some grey MarineTex locally...I'm gonna do this when I get home since I'm gonna get there a few days early.

 

[FOTIS]

I typically do a inch or two ahead of the lug on light weight sporters and more on heavier barrels. It just depends on the flat section of the barrel. Release agent is your friend. Be anal and coat everything twice or 3 times. I usually remove the barreled action in 6 to 8 hours when the bedding is hard yet somewhat flexible. If you wait longer it's just harder to remove especially if you bed the recoil lug tight. I tape off the sides and front of the lug so the barreled action goes in and out of stock easier. It's also easier to trim up the bedding that runs into areas like the magazine well and trigger well when it's just a little soft still.

Everything Nathan said here is gospel to me. Pretty easy job, it sounds alot harder than it really is.

Perfectly said

 

[Ridgerunner665]

Thanks for the tips everybody...

I may need some more before its over, LOL.

 

[Elkman]

It will go well, the instructions here are perfect. Relax and enjoy the ride.

 

[jmad_81]

I have done some glass bedding on half a dozen rifles. I now have my smith do it. It cost $100, but it looks like it should. Attention to detail, and finish work are not my strong points. Plus when I'm having trouble getting a rifle to shoot I start to question myself.

I know I can do it, but it takes a lot of time with zero destractions. Haveing two kids very interested in guns makes it hard to get much alone time in my gun room.

Use lots of release compound. I reallt like Kiwi nuetral shoe polish. I tape off the front of the recoil lug. Anlong with the sides and bottom. Leaving the only point of contact being the back of the recoil lug. I also bed the first two or three inches of the barrel. Basically, I leave one spot by the front action screw that is factory, and one by the back. Everything else gets hogged out by the dremmal tool, and bedded back in.

I have done bedding take a rifle that shot 2" at best to one that will do 5 shots under an inch. I wished it worked that way on all 2" rifles :?

 

[IdahoCTD]

I'll add some other things I do.....I stack a few layers of masking tape, making sure one edge is lined up perfect or trim with a razor blade, and then wrap them around the barrel so when it's bedded the bedding has a definitive stopping point. I usually tape off the rest of the barrel as well so you don't have to grind any bedding out that might make it past the tape. I think I saw where McMillan does basically the same thing but with thick electrical tape so it curves around the barrel taper better. I haven't tried that yet. If you do a good job of it the bedding turns out really nice in the barrel channel. I also tape off the top edge of the stock all the way around and trim it with a razor blade. I use a wooden Popsicle stick cut square on one end and sanded smooth to run down the top edge of the stock against the barreled action to get rid of the excess bedding compound. I don't get super aggressive doing this but I get rid of the bulk of it. If you get aggressive the bedding will shrink below the stock line and leave a small void. I let the gun dry upside down once it starts to thicken a bit if I'm not using pillars. This keeps the top side of the bedding cleaner. If you leave it upright you'll get voids in places where the bedding has several escape routes. You can help that by building dam's of modeling clay in places like the magazine well/trigger well and the barrel channel.