its why I hate fliers

TackDriver284

Handloader
Feb 13, 2016
2,315
1,564
Went out to the range this morning to check bullet seating tests for two rifles in .015 increments at a range of 200 yards. Wind conditions, northwest wind 5 mph

Top row ACROSS
6.5 x 284 - H4831SC 50.6 grains, Fed. 210M, Lapua brass, Fired 3X, 130 Berger OTM

.010 into the lands
.007 off lands
.022 off lands
.037 off lands

On the first group, I was pretty happy when the first 3 shots went into the same ragged hole at 200 yards until the 4th shot which was a flier. Boy, that ticks me off ! I really hate that and it mind boggles me what the cause of the flier could have been. Could it be hardening of the brass ( fired 3 X ), did I pull the last shot, a variance with the brass, etc. Won't know until I reload some more and try again at .010 into the lands. I would not worry about a pressure spike because the charge is mild at 2,915 fps.


2nd row ACROSS

.308 - Varget 42.8 grains, 178 ELD-M, Fed210M, Lapua brass, Fired 3X

Previously used BR-2 primers and ran out of them, still have three bricks of Fed210M primers so going to retest since it does not shoot the same as the BR-2 primers which groups a little less than an inch at 300 yards.

3 rounds each charge:
.005 into the lands
.015 off the lands
.030 off the lands
.045 off the lands


Seems that the last three groups have not changed much so I will go back and try to redo .010 into the lands and in .005 increments.

My other problem is chasing accuracy when temps change, so I will be doing the ladder test next for the .300 Win Mag at 300 yards. See if i find a nice cluster to start with and choose the middle charge so that way when temps change then groups won't change as much.

Side note, I never had an annealer, would you recommend an annealer to provide consistent neck tension?

q7gKHom.jpg
 
There is a post here some where about annealing and a big handed Marine even did a video on how he does it. Annealing can be expensive or cheap depending on how you want to go, you can use the candle and bare hand method or a battery powered drill with a deep well socket and a propane torch which you probably already have. There are expensive machines also that get the job done and can be a little more consistent but to be honest unless you are a high volume shooter / reloader the machines will sit around and collect dust. JMO
I use the drill and socket method with a propane torch.
Yeah I'm cheap but then I have saved some money to buy other things that way. :mrgreen:
 
AK7AN":3cplj7h4 said:
Wow.. great shooting... You are concerned with what???????
Fliers. Three tight in a cluster and one out is a disappointment. Could be hardening of the brass causing variance in neck tension.
 
Trim length? Concentricity checked? Those along with annealing would be my first thoughts.
Nice shooting though.
 
Dwh7271":2amyg82l said:
Trim length? Concentricity checked? Those along with annealing would be my first thoughts.
Nice shooting though.

Thanks for the compliments, trimmed all at book trim length specs. As for concentricity, Lapua brass necks have been turned to .286 necks on the 6.5 x 284 and neck sized with Redding Compeition dies with bushing.
 
Annealing brass correctly brings back the case 'elasticity' so the case is able to seal (obturate) correctly in the chamber, generating correct pressures. It's a massive aid to extending the life of your carefully prepared brass.
I anneal every three firings.

Neck tension is to my mind, better evened out using a Lee Factory Crimp die. The use of this die certainly gives improved MV & ES when loads are checked with a chronometer. This is a great aid to accuracy.
Others deal with sorting out their case neck tension in different ways, but for me, the Lee FC die is quick & easy and works. Cheap too!

Plainly though, brass prep. is extended as other aspects such as careful resizing, trimming, bullet seating and run out of both case neck and bullet seating are dealt with as well.

Though, looking at what you have, there's not a great deal to worry about. Nice.
 
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