New scope on primary rifle. CDS, BDC,SF, AO, ?

Hmmm. Interesting thread, late entry by me.

I'm usually a K.I.S.S. kind of guy with sights, scopes etc. It's just an aiming device.

The simple fixed 6x Leupold with the 42mm obj is my favorite hunting scope, and my best all-around scope. I also have a smaller 6x36 of which I'm quite fond.

Hunting big game to 400 yards with a flat shooting cartridge like your .270? Well, my .25-06 is zeroed at 300 yards and I never bother twisting the knobs anymore. It's just got a simple duplex reticle. I hold the crosshairs on the animal at any range out to about 330 yards or so, and start moving higher on the animal as I get out there a bit. At 400 yards I put the crosshairs just below the back of a mule deer doe, and squeezed the trigger. Then walked down into, and back up the canyon on the other side, to go get my venison. Hold on hair from muzzle to 400 yards, with a simple fixed power scope. It really works out just fine.

Or.... If the trajectory isn't quite as zippy flat, or I want more precision... Well then, I dial a deer. Range it. Dial it. Send it. My primary scopes for this are a pair of 4.5-14x Leupold scopes with the 1" tubes because I got them quite a while ago. Sent one in for the M1 knobs a few years back. They're nice. I've got these scopes on my .308 Green Machine and also on my .300 WSM Model 70. Yes, the field of view is a little tight on them, but I like 'em anyway. On 4.5x I hammered a Wyoming mulie buck at a whopping 25 yards in 2007. If he was much closer I think I'd have just looked over the scope at him!

Leupold will build you a custom reticle by the way, that matches your specs... Let them know which bullet you're using at what velocity, and they can apply hash marks on the reticle at the appropriate heights. It's tempting, but I haven't done that yet. It's a little inflexible for me, say if I wanted to try a different bullet, or if I was hunting at a radically different altitude. I live and shoot mostly at about 1,000' ASL, and often hunt around 6,000' ASL. Or go to Wyoming and find myself hunting at 8,000 - 11,000' ASL. That sort of difference affects trajectory in a substantial way - and could easily throw off a range compensating reticle. It throws off the scope - dialing too, but I just add or subtract "clicks" as necessary to compensate.

Best of luck with the decision. Again, I tend to keep things real simple. Either plaster the crosshairs right on the animal and squeeze the trigger, or dial the elevation then plaster the crosshairs right on the animal and squeeze the trigger. Both ways work, and I hop back and forth from one to the other as necessary. Really though, with a flat-shooting rifle and big game as the target, the PBR way of zeroing and then hunting within that range works pretty darned well.

Oooops. realized I tossed a new term in there "PBR" - or point blank range, not Pabst Blue Ribbon! We all good with that term? It's simply a way of maximizing the use of your rifle's trajectory, usually by sighting-in way out there around 300 yards for common flat shooting hunting rifles like a 7mm mag or similar. Makes it possible and easy to hold on the animal out to some pretty impressive ranges, often well over 300 yards.

Regards, Guy
 
No problem with the PBR. I wasn't thinking beer, but I am now. :p

My concern with the Minox is the length of the eye piece. Even if I mount it as far forward as it can go, it will still stick out too far for me. I crawl the stock a bit more than most, and at 6'2" with long arms, it gets amplified just that much more. I can't have the end of the scope more than abut 1" behind the trigger. I think the Minox would stick out too far. I've tried a longer LOP, but it made the front of the rifle feel strange.

The custom reticle was a thought, but it will still only be calibrated when set at the highest power setting. This is my issue with the Nikon BDC. I really think that for all my hunting situations that knowing my zero and yardage reference of the bottom post will cover most shots. I can then take the time to learn my "come-ups" on the elevation turret. I keep telling myself that just because I order a scope with an M1 turret doesn't mean that I have to use it for anythng past sighting in. If I go with the BDC, I don't have to use it, but I do have to look at it each time, and that I do not like.

I'm not a die-hard Leupold fan, but the VX3 3.5-10x40 with M1 elevation turret sure looks more attractive the more I shop. These will go on "twin" BDL stainless, 270WSM and 300SAUM with B&C black/gray web stock and Talley rings. The loads are 140 Accubonds at 3220fps for the WSM and 180 Accubonds at 2965fps for the SAUM. I might visit the E-Tip in the SAUM, just because.
 
Same here, I have always liked regular Duplex reticles and zero them to 3" high at 100 yards. In just about all of my rifles it gives a 250-300 yard zero. I have recently started using the B&C and BDC reticles and must say, they are much nicer for putting shots onto target out to 500-600 yards. I am really wanting to get a dial range scope, just not sure which one I should do just yet. Thinking of having M1 turrets put on my 270WSM's 3.5x10 VXIII. That rifle shoots really flat to 300 yards and only slightly low at 400. I figure I could use it to stretch the range some to 600 yards without too much trouble. They all work decent, but it is nice to have have proper aiming points at extended ranges. Scotty
 
I'm stuggling with this very idea with my 280 AI. It is a VXIII 4.5-14x40 LR with a duplex. I was thinking about changing to the TMR so I can change guns and still be able to build a hold over chart. Funny thing is I think it would be cheaper to have M1 turrets put on for windage and elevation, and I would still be able to change guns. I like the concept of the CDS dials, and the custom reticel, but I change scopes around every now and then, so that won't work for me.

I'm with you on the side focus, I don't like it. I thought about selling it, but I really like the 14x. So I guess I'll just learn to deal with it.

I took my bull elk last year at 420 yards using a 160 AB @ 2950 and the BPR method. Worked out pretty dang good for me, and bad for the elk. One shot right through the heart. Thinking Guy has it right, K.I.S.S is what I'm going with.
 
I would go with a target knob scope to dial for your longer shots and target shooting. Leave it zeroed at 200 yards and use it like a normal scope for hunting if thats what you wish. Longer hunting shots you still have time to dial, its more precise then a BDC reticle as well. Also your not restricted to 1 or 2 loads this way, or have to remember to be on a certain power to range or judge distance if its not a FF scope.

A lot of people dont like high powered optics but I'm not in this group. My favorite scope is a 6-18 or 6-20x leupold w/target knobs and fine duplex (reticle of your choice) with preferably a SF option, but I"ll take the AO either way. I dont like busy reticles but I might make the switch and try a mil dot here real soon on a 6-20x Vortex Viper for my 264.

Lots of good scopes you got to choose, but I'd personally stick with Leupold, and skip the fixed powers :)
 
The Nikon website has a ballistic calculator that gives you the distance for the points on the BDC reticle for all the magnifications. You need to know the muzzle velocity and enter the bullet being used in their calculator. It also gives the same info for the mil dot reticles. Pretty neat Ballistic Calculator.
http://www.nikonhunting.com/spoton/
 
I am a fan of the M1 dials but I am going to give the CDS dial a try. I have a VX-3 3.5-10x40mm CDS on order and will mount it on my 280 AI. I am thinking this scope will be just about perfect for speed goats and deer from up close to way out there.

JD338
 
I am thinking this scope will be just about perfect for speed goats and deer from up close to way out there.

It is a fine piece of glass, to be certain.
 
JD338":1l8od1wj said:
I am a fan of the M1 dials but I am going to give the CDS dial a try. I have a VX-3 3.5-10x40mm CDS on order and will mount it on my 280 AI. I am thinking this scope will be just about perfect for speed goats and deer from up close to way out there.

JD338


Looking forward to seeing what you think of it Jim. I have been bucking the M1 dials for years.. I know how much of a fan you are of them. Scotty
 
I'm with Guy. The simpler the better. Wind drift gets the better of me before drop. Cant tell you how many years it took for me to learn to "hold on the hair". Missed a lot of stuff over the top. Best all around rectile ands maybe scope period is a K-4 Weaver with that fine cross hair and a 2 min. dot. CL
 
I've used both a Nikon ProStaff and a Redfield Revolution, both 3-9x40, both with their version of BDC's, both out to 300 yards. Both are fine riflescopes for the money. While I ended up buying a Revolution AccuRange 3-9x50, I wouldn't mind one bit having the equivalent ProStaff BDC on my rifle. For long-range work, I've found the Simmons Whitetail Classic 6.5-20x50's that MidwayUSA sells to be pretty good. Not sure how they'd stand up to .308" bolt-action, never having tried it, but on the 5.56 semi-auto, they work just fine.
 
If it were me, and shooting the wsm's to 400yards mostly, with the chance of shooting 500 or farther, I'd order a vx3 3.5x10 with a tmr and an m1 turret on the up knob, then use the tmr at all ranges when a quick shot is needed, and dial in some up for precision shooting.
RR
 
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