Pillar Bed Job

This is a question, both wood stocked 700 rifles I had pillared bedded also had the action area glassed and the barrel out to the end of the chamber is bedded. After that the barrel is free floated. One done by a local smith and the other by shilen.

So I have assumed thats the way all rifles are done. Please comment seems there are different ways to do this.
 
That' common. Some , however, don't bed at all in front of the recoil lug. My problem was that I pillar bedded and glass bedded all in one step (using t-screws to secure the floor plate during the bedding process). I found out that this caused pressure from the floor plate that was then captured in the glass bed. I removed the glass bed while keeping the pillars installed and rebedded using only electrical tape to hold the action in the stock while curing. First 4 shot group after rebedding was .4MOA. With my pressured bed job I couldn't even get MOA.
Regarding your question, the bedded barrel (first couple of inches) only adds a pressure point which may help with accuracy in sporter barrels, or help to support the weight of a bull barrel. The barrel may also look bedded (to fill the forend chamber of large gaps, but may be floated. Running some paper under the barrel will tell you how far back toward the lug the barrel is floated. Different ways to do it but all agree that good contact is needed at the back of the lug, the chamber around the action screw, and the tang (for a rem 700 configuration at least).
 
I am in agreement that it is not a good idea to put too much screw tension on the action while curing bedding. I usually only snug the action screw enough to make sure that the bedding is in the correct position but not tight enough to put any torque or tension on the action while bedding cures.
 
Yeah, I learned that the hard way. I followed the instructions with the scorehigh.com pillar bedding kit and only slightly snugged the screws against the floor plate, but it still created pressure. Now I know why many of you guys recommeneded doing the pillars and the action bed in two separate processes using only surgical tubing or electrical tape to secure the action to the stock with minimal pressure.
BTW - Thanks everybody for helping me out on that one. Best forum hands down for gunsmithing and shooting.
 
I THINK you have other Problems then Beddiing with that rifle - BETTER look else where - you are wasting your time rebedding this rifle in my opinion ! Loads ? Barrel Crown ? Scope ? Rings-Mounts ? Bore Condition? Copper FOULED ? Lots of things to check out ! Good LUCK

Cheers RJ
 
Well...the gun shot about .6 MOA before the bed job. I bedded it because my POI was changing from outing to outing depending on temp and humidity. Also I was concerned about the stock crushing at the guard screws over time. Because it was a good shooter, I wanted to preserve the stock long term by pillar bedding. But my groups went to over MOA until I rebedded it without pressure from the guard screws. After rebedding, first 4 shot group was .4MOA. So I am happy with that (especially for a factory SPS barrel). But I learned my lesson: It if ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
G'Day Fella's,

During last year, I bedded 5 or 6 www.hightech-specialties.com (HTS) synthetic stocks, to my own bolt action rifles.
Now these are very well made (but in "Out of The Mould" finish) and properly laid up fiberglass (etc), sporting/classic style stocks, and I'm very happy with them.

Basically, there are a several bedding principals, that apply to all bolt action rifles, they are as follows;
1) The only Vertical surface to be in contact the stock bedding, is the action Recoil Lug!
2) The action screws, should not contact any of the stock bedding (they should Float)!
3) Only the bottom area's around the Front and Rear Action Screws, should come in contact with the stock bedding!

I use the Bedding Tape that Brownell's sell, to mask off all area's of the Action and it's Action Screws, to give me the clearances that I want, to achieve this slight clearance!

I hope that helps

Doh!
Homer
 
Me again,

Principle 1) should have read;
1) The only Vertical Surface of the Rifles Action to be in contact with the stock bedding, is the Rear Face of the action Recoil Lug!

I mask off all of the other surface's of the Action and Barrel, with either 1 or 2 thicknesses of Brownell's Bedding Tape, to achieve this slight clearance!
I usually use 3 thicknesses of this same Bedding Tape along the Side and Bottom of the barrel, to give enough clearance for a practical Floating Barrel, on hunting rifles!

I hope that clears that up?

Doh!
Homer
 
Just remembered another one!

If the action you are bedding is a Mauser 98 (or similar) or the front action screw, screws directly into the bottom of the action Recoil Lug, both the bottom of that Recoil Lug and its Rear Face, should be in contact with the stock bedding!

If I remember any other "Gems", I'll post them!

Doh!
Homer
 
Rem 7-
I just read through parts of this post again. Maybe I missed it and you've already addressed it. But I spent a lot of energy, money and aggrivation, on the bedding of my rifle, then bought a new scope, before finally going back to my reloads and backing them off a grain or two. That was my answer.... good luck with your project. CL
 
Thanks CL, I'm with ya. This rebed without using the guard screws was going to be my last effort before I started looking at other issues (other than the bedding). Thankfully this last bed job took well. Shot again at 475 yards today and put a 4 shot group at just over 3". Super happy with that. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
It is shooting quite nicely. Congratulations on a job well done.
 
That bedding job looks really goo and those groups are great! glad you found an answer! CL
 
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