Pillar Bedding

ldg397

Handloader
Sep 27, 2007
302
2
I am going to attempt my first ever bedding of a rifle. I bought the brownells kit but wanted to know if it is worth the extra effort to pillar bed. If so what pillars, it looks like their are hollands and some cheaper ones already machined to fit round remington action? This is a hunting rifle not target or extremely long range. Didn't know if the pillar bedding might not be worth the effort?? Other question is the barrel isn't free floated and if I remove the built in wood pressure point is there an adjustable pressure point that can be put back in?
 
Pillar bedding is indeed worth the effort! It will give the action consistent pressure in the stock. I am not aware of any way to give adjustable pressure points other than using a shim. If you remove the factory pressure point, it may be tough to create an other pressure point. Now having said that, I have removed factory pressure points and had better shooting rifles. YMMV

JD338
 
I use Brownells adjustable pillars ( order # 080-910-000) an like JD i free float all my barrels.
 
I also freefloat all my barrels. I have several factory guns that shoot 1/2", and the only things I've done is freefloat and adjust the trigger.
Freefloat the barrel, pillar bed, and have a little patience with your reloads and you may no longer consider it "just a hunting rifle".
 
Antelope_Sniper":3gqkbilp said:
I also freefloat all my barrels. I have several factory guns that shoot 1/2", and the only things I've done is freefloat and adjust the trigger.
Freefloat the barrel, pillar bed, and have a little patience with your reloads and you may no longer consider it "just a hunting rifle".

+1
Here is what a factory hunting rifle can do.
338RUM250grAB412.jpg

JD338
 
Here are some more groups from a factory rifle - my Mark V synthetic in 270Wby. The largest of these groups (lower left) goes just over .65" center-to-center, if I remember correctly. The smallest is the upper left, and comes in a .249". The other two are under .5". All are 3 shots at 100yds with my handloads (130gr & 150gr) off of Caldwell bags from a seated position. This rifle has had a little bit of trigger adjustment and nothing else - the stock is the el cheapo 'tupperware' synthetic stock. One day it will wear a B&C Medalist, but I don't have the extra $250 laying around right now. As long as I can shoot like this, though, that Medalist is just for aesthetics!

newavatar.jpg
 
I agree with everyone else.
A proper bedding job, along with a trigger adjustment, should bring your hunting rifle into the target rifle group.

As far as pressure points go......
Bed your action and take out your pressure point to free float your barrel.
Develop your best shooting hand loads. Keep in mind, OAL and primers will chane everything.
If you are not happy with the groups you are shooting after sufficient deviations with your hand loads try bedding in a pressure point............

Assuming at this point your barrel is free floted and no matter what you try yiur gun still shoots like !@#$.
Go to the range with your best shooting handload. Cut some card stock into 1/2" strips, take the strips and place them between your forearm and barrel. You will need to vary the thickness (quantity) of strips and position up and down the forearm.
Play around with quantity and location until you see an improvement in your groups. Mark the location of the strips and note the thickness.
take your action out of your stock and move your card strips just ahead of the desired position. Apply bedding compound to the previously marked location. Leave the card stock ahead of the marked position and place the barreled action back into the stock.
After the bedding hardens take the barreled action back out of the stock and remove the card stock.
 
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