Primer Pockets

[truck driver]

I sprung for a Redding primer pocket uniforming tool and got it today in the mail.
The Redding comes with the adapter for use in a drill and after several primer pockets by hand I decided to try the drill feature and a nice feature it is. The primer pockets came out looking great. I uniformed some Nosler 7mm Remington brass and once fired Federal 7mm Remington and it seemed like there was a good bit of metal removed so I measured the depth of the primer pockets and I was removing .002"-.003" from the pockets. I also uniformed so new 35 Whelen Nosler cases with the same results and also new Remington 35 Whelen brass. So while I was at it I had some Nosler Whelen AI brass that I had freshly annealed so I resized it and uniformed them also. These I plan on reloading for some load work up and will eventually uniform all the brass I have on hand.
I didn't realize how much the primer pockets were out of spec even in once fired factory brass and new virgin brass.
I'm anxious to see if this will improve the accuracy of my reloads.
The drill feature of the Redding tool saves the hands and speeds the process it also makes a better looking primer pocket than I could achieve by hand.
There are two things I would change on this tool to make it more user friendly. I would make a ball handle model for those of us with larger hands and since the cutter has to be machined anyway I would make the stop shelf wider about the same diameter of the shell rim to help keeping it square in the pocket when cleaning or uniforming by hand.

 

[Elkman]

Nice write up TD, that sounds like a great tool. I will have to look into it, thanks.

 

[nvbroncrider]

Read where a lot of comp shooters won't mess with pockets until after the 3rd firing due to stress streching and such.

 

[truck driver]

Hi Jake; the 35 Whelen brass has had more than three firings in them and I lost count on the AI brass .
One thing I noticed was the Nosler brass primer pockets was harder than the Remington when I tried uniforming by hand, you would also see chatter marks in the bottom of the pockets but when using the drill they would be smooth and clean.

Elkman; thanks for the comments. I choose the Redding over the Lyman because it was made from carbide steel which is harder and wears longer than conventional steel. The Redding is the more expensive by about $13 but you get what you pay for in my book.
I'm sure the Lyman will do the job but might not do it as long. It also doesn't come with a drill attachment.

 

[George Foster]

I have been using a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer for years now and I wouldn't be without it. I normally use it by hand but if I have a large number of cases to do I put it in an electric drill. After you have uniformed your pockets then you can just clean the carbon out of them when you reload the cases each time. I feel anything you do to make your cases more uniform will help your accuracy.

 

[BillPa]

I made these for my Wilson trimmers.

I don't know if those type are still available today or not, I bought them from Sinclair years ago. They're the same diameter end to end, no shoulder. I used the collars set the depth of the cut. What it is I haven't a clue without checking. I set them maybe 15 or so years ago and haven't changed them since. :grin:

What I've found, the rounded corner of the pockets tend to "roll' the edge of the cup when seating before the anvil makes contact creating that mushy feeling when hand seating primers. Once that rounded corner is cut square I can feel the anvil bottom out first then the cup. The other thing, many times the floor is on a taper from it's outer edge to the flash hole. Three sticks of new Rem brass ..

#1, the corner of the pocket partially squared, #2, 100% squared and #3, the floor squared to the wall and the pocket cut to depth. BTW, I don't use them to clean the pockets.

Will truing pockets make a difference? Heck, I don't know but in my way of thinking I'm sure doesn't hurt.
Bill