Reloading for accuracy
- Thread starter RAY
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Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
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To be honest with you I don't know. I will say I never heard of a lot of this stuff till I came here and still don't own any of it. Just a good set of mics and calipers. But from what I have read it doesn't seem too hurt having them but I like to keep it simple all this extra knowledge gives me a head ache. :shock: :roll: :lol:
Ray,
I would say yes but I'm an accuracy nut. This is a 200 meter 3 shot group. Subtract 0.264 from that number to get the group size. I think the more accurate your rounds are the more margin for error you have.
If you're shooting 2" at 200 Yards you're only good to 600 Yards on deer sized game and that's only under perfect conditions. Add some wind, rain or snow, and elevation changes and your maximum distance decreases considerably.
Vince
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I would say yes but I'm an accuracy nut. This is a 200 meter 3 shot group. Subtract 0.264 from that number to get the group size. I think the more accurate your rounds are the more margin for error you have.
If you're shooting 2" at 200 Yards you're only good to 600 Yards on deer sized game and that's only under perfect conditions. Add some wind, rain or snow, and elevation changes and your maximum distance decreases considerably.
Vince
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DrMike
Ballistician
- Nov 8, 2006
- 37,312
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The operative word is "need." The answer to the question is "no." Work at consistency in pressure on the handle of your press, consistency in powder measurements and careful dimensional measurements; it will astonish you how accurate ammunition can be when you watch the simple things. You are describing minute of angle accuracy which is often possible with factory ammunition anymore. With careful handloads, it is a virtual certainty.
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- #5
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- #6
- Nov 4, 2004
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Ray,
NO, you do not need these items to turn out accurate loads.
I have been reloading for 40 years and I do not use any of the items you mentioned.
I do weigh out each charge and measure COL. I also prep cases and uniform primer cups.
Here is a 200 yd group that went .512" c/c that I shot last summer with my 338 RUM and 250 gr AB factory seconds.
Keep the barrel clean and cool while shooting, use a solid rest and follow through with your shots.
JD338
NO, you do not need these items to turn out accurate loads.
I have been reloading for 40 years and I do not use any of the items you mentioned.
I do weigh out each charge and measure COL. I also prep cases and uniform primer cups.
Here is a 200 yd group that went .512" c/c that I shot last summer with my 338 RUM and 250 gr AB factory seconds.
Keep the barrel clean and cool while shooting, use a solid rest and follow through with your shots.
JD338
- Thread starter
- #8
Nope, unless you are a target or competition shooter. I am not where I can post pictures, but I am probably one of the "lowest" tech, reloaders here. My serious rifles all Group consistently under 1/2 MOA. That's more than good enough for 98% of hunters. I concentrate on matching the powder, bullet and AOL. That's pretty much it for me.
- Thread starter
- #10
That's real good too !!!!JD338":1llofsap said:Ray,
NO, you do not need these items to turn out accurate loads.
I have been reloading for 40 years and I do not use any of the items you mentioned.
I do weigh out each charge and measure COL. I also prep cases and uniform primer cups.
Here is a 200 yd group that went .512" c/c that I shot last summer with my 338 RUM and 250 gr AB factory seconds.
Keep the barrel clean and cool while shooting, use a solid rest and follow through with your shots.
JD338
truck driver
Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
- 7,303
- 845
Ray depending on the rifle I can get 3/8" 5 shot groups out of my custom barreled 257 Roberts, 1/2" groups out of my custom bedded 30-06, 3/4" groups out of my 300bee and the 35 Whelen which is pillar bedded will shoot 1/2" groups all if I do what's right when I pull the trigger.RAY":29ls2hyi said:
I weigh every powder charge on a beam scale,properly prepare all my cases and neck size for each rifle and measure for length and trim those that need it, I make sure I seat the bullet straight. I'm real old school and only load one rifle cartridge at a time. Though I have a powder measure and use to drop 20 charges at a time I went back to doing it one at a time for consistency and hand trickle every powder charge. It may be slow but that's the way I like it and find it relaxing and enjoyable making one cartridge at a time. I do have progressive pistol cartridge reloaders and wouldn't be with out them but I don't crank out max rounds per hour and I also hand cast weigh and inspect every pistol bullet I make.
If I reloaded or manufactured ammo for sale it would be different and would have progressive machines to do it but I only reload for enjoyment and relaxation and to save a little money now that everything I own has paid for it's self.
I hope this helps to answer some of your questions.
Ray,
As I stated before, I'm an accuracy nut.
I did however find some things that help, without all the fancy equipment. Weighing each powder charge, seating the bullet straight, and matching the right bullet to the barrel with the right powder. That and a lot of time behind the rifle all help. I know when I shoot a round if I flinched, seldom, or if I was using the proper breathing technique, and had the proper preload on the bipod and cheekweld. Like I said, a lot of time behind the rifle.
I don't shoot competition but the gentleman that taught me to really shoot asked me to work up loads and shoot his rifles. He shot on the Olympic Team in 1968 and has continued shooting since then. I think that says something. I'm not saying that to brag but rather to illustrate my point. I weigh each charge and use a concentricity gauge. I've shot MOA without the concentricity gauge but not sub MOA. In fact even getting MOA can be difficult in some rifles with certain barrel, bullet, and powder combinations and I think the gauge just helps to get things right.
Where I scrimp is in case trimming. I use the Lee case length gauge trimmer that you turn by hand. My primer pocket cleaning tool is also a Lee and is handheld. I chamfer and deburr also with the handheld Lee tool.
So I think it's a mixture of higher tech and low tech with an attention to detail that produces accurate rounds.
Some folks are happy with MOA but I'm not one of them. For me it is an endeavor to get benchrest groups out of a hunting rifle.
Vince
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
As I stated before, I'm an accuracy nut.
I did however find some things that help, without all the fancy equipment. Weighing each powder charge, seating the bullet straight, and matching the right bullet to the barrel with the right powder. That and a lot of time behind the rifle all help. I know when I shoot a round if I flinched, seldom, or if I was using the proper breathing technique, and had the proper preload on the bipod and cheekweld. Like I said, a lot of time behind the rifle.
I don't shoot competition but the gentleman that taught me to really shoot asked me to work up loads and shoot his rifles. He shot on the Olympic Team in 1968 and has continued shooting since then. I think that says something. I'm not saying that to brag but rather to illustrate my point. I weigh each charge and use a concentricity gauge. I've shot MOA without the concentricity gauge but not sub MOA. In fact even getting MOA can be difficult in some rifles with certain barrel, bullet, and powder combinations and I think the gauge just helps to get things right.
Where I scrimp is in case trimming. I use the Lee case length gauge trimmer that you turn by hand. My primer pocket cleaning tool is also a Lee and is handheld. I chamfer and deburr also with the handheld Lee tool.
So I think it's a mixture of higher tech and low tech with an attention to detail that produces accurate rounds.
Some folks are happy with MOA but I'm not one of them. For me it is an endeavor to get benchrest groups out of a hunting rifle.
Vince
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
- Thread starter
- #15
Ray, NYDAN has a great thread, that you posted in, that helps to illustrate my point.
He uses all those fancy tools.
If you are new to reloading you won't need them to start out. Get a good load worked up in your rifle and then go with the concentricity gauge. You can add equipment as needed or desired, depending upon your goal, after that. I took some factory ammo, Remington Coreloss, that was shooting like a shotgun in my rifle, estimated 3" shotgun pattern, and after using the concentricity gauge got them shooting 1.5". I'll let you decide if that's worth it or not.
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He uses all those fancy tools.
If you are new to reloading you won't need them to start out. Get a good load worked up in your rifle and then go with the concentricity gauge. You can add equipment as needed or desired, depending upon your goal, after that. I took some factory ammo, Remington Coreloss, that was shooting like a shotgun in my rifle, estimated 3" shotgun pattern, and after using the concentricity gauge got them shooting 1.5". I'll let you decide if that's worth it or not.
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257 Ackley
Handloader
- Nov 25, 2008
- 1,763
- 0
I spent the first 25+ reloading years without all the fancy stuff and could shoot under MOA with most rifles that I took the time to do proper load work (right powders, seating depth, etc). If you are going to be a competition or LR shooter (600 yards plus), you will need to add/upgrade some equipment and components.
- Thread starter
- #18
Just for hunting whitetails out to about 200 yards.
My bee s2 shoots the Fed. 150 gr.
Blue box with holes touching at 100 yrds.
I plan is to weight sort and uniform pockets and prep by the book and look to you guys for advice.
I bought a rcbs neck sizer to true up my nosler brass and FL size my win. cases.
Oh yeah, by the way . What do I use to clean the oil that smells like gear oil out of the dies ?
My bee s2 shoots the Fed. 150 gr.
Blue box with holes touching at 100 yrds.
I plan is to weight sort and uniform pockets and prep by the book and look to you guys for advice.
I bought a rcbs neck sizer to true up my nosler brass and FL size my win. cases.
Oh yeah, by the way . What do I use to clean the oil that smells like gear oil out of the dies ?
- Nov 4, 2004
- 25,162
- 8,416
Brake cleaner will cut all the crud and flush of out.
I'd coat with a thin coat of oil afterwards.
JD338
I'd coat with a thin coat of oil afterwards.
JD338
