runnout

[boomer68]

On the subject of neck turning, what is a good tool to use? I would be looking at getting one.

Another item that seems popular is the flash hole deburring tool.

 

[woods]

On the subject of neck turning, what is a good tool to use? I would be looking at getting one.

Another item that seems popular is the flash hole deburring tool.

There are several outside neck turners but only 2 that I am familiar with, the K & M and the Forster. The K & M

http://www.precisionreloading.com/mm5/m ... ECK_TRN_KM

is the most expensive. They used to have their own website but must have decided to sell through distributors. They have more adjustments and you can even buy a dial to attach to it to read the thickness you are turning to. By the time you are through (turning mandre, expander mandrel, inside reaming mandrel, dial) you will spend well over $100.00. I don't like them because the cutting blade is thin and it is hard to get a smooth surface.

I like and own a Forster

http://www.forsterproducts.com/catalog. ... prevnext=1

it is simpler and has a wide blade for a smooth cut

then all you need is a turning mandrel in your caliber for about $10.00. What I also like about the Forster is that they sell reamers that are .003" over caliber diameter so you can get rid of do-nuts if they develop. They will fit in your hand turner since they have the same mandrel diameter

Then it is possible to trap the neck brass between the outside turning blade and the reamer (if you have a custom tight necked chamber and have set up your brass for .003" clearance)

for a final touch up of the outside and an inside ream to get a very consistant neck thickness

Also it is best to have a good way to measure neck thickness. Your calipers will not do. A ball micrometer is best

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?p ... ber=257288

and work best with a stand (unless you have 3 hands)

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?p ... ber=798812

There are other products out there but these will get the job done.

 

[hardpan]

woods, Great POST!!!!

thanks, the pics are worth 1000 words, each...
Hardpan

 

[Antelope_Sniper]

Yes, Thanks Woods, you really put things in perspective. I have at least two rifle that I should start neck turning for, and your post (along with the rest in this thread) answered alot of my odd ball questions.
Thanks again!

 

[boomer68]

Many thanks for your information Woods! Really appreciate it.

 

[JD338]

woods,

Thanks for posting the pictorial, very informative!

JD338

 

[woods]

You guys are welcome, good thing Photobucket is free!

One thing I forgot to add is that you need to get the neck the right inside diameter to accept the turning mandrel. You should turn new cases and most of those are too tight. For the Forster the Lee Collet Neck Sizing die mandrel is just about right. For the K & M they sell a special die and expanding mandrel for each caliber.

For the couple of oddball calibers that I don't have a Lee Collet Neck Sizer in, then I just use one from another caliber that has the same diameter. For instance in 338RUM I just take a 338 win mag and run just a little of the mandrel down the neck to expand it in preparation for the turning mandrel. Just run it in far enough for the neck but not far enough to hit the case body.

Then you need to address the condition of the inside of the neck because the turning mandrel will scratch it up

I use a combination of steel wool wrapped around a 22 caliber brush and Scotchbrite held in hemostats

that will smooth it up. Then after fireforming and another prep the inside of the case is back to smooth.

 

[hardpan]

woods,
Do you size before you neck ream? or do you use fired rounds? I find that after sizing, inside neck reaming is pretty hard as the fit is quite tight. But, if i use fired brass, i don't remove any brass during the operation.
BTW, I am using forster benchmark dies.
thanks,
Hardpan

 

[Antelope_Sniper]

Today i ordered the Forster Neck turner, and pair of turning mandrels.

In addition, I spent part of this afternoon taking apart my various dies, trying to analyze the inner workings, trying to decide with one's best suppor tthe concept of reducing runout. Of the one's I have, Hornady new dimention, standard RCBS, and standard Redding, It looks like the Hornady probably has the best designed bullet seating die. The sliding alignment sleeve looks like it will provide better bullet to case alignment.

I also tried removing the expander ball from the sizing die, neck sizing a case, and sticking a bullet in it.....yep it worked.


I imagine the fun will really begin once the neck turner arrives.

 

[hardpan]

Hey Sniper,
How far down did you push to neck size the brass? I am not sure how removing the expander ball works to just size the neck.

With the brass that i have, if i size before I inside neck ream, it is too tight for the reamer, but if I don't, I basically don't cut any brass during inside reaming.

Outside neck turning works well for me.
thanks,
Hardpan

 

[Antelope_Sniper]

I tried two sizing dies, both the Redding, and the Hornady, just removing the expander die and neck sizing the case. On each I sized about 1/2 the neck. Both worked fine, and there was only about .001-002 difference in the outside neck diameter of the sized area. This eqated to the smallest bushing size redding sells for their bushing dies in 7mm STW. Although the experiment worked, I felt the neck tention was probably more then desired, but a little outside neck turning should fix that. This was with Remington brass. I would have tried some Winchester brass (which is typically thinner) but it was all sized and ready to be loaded.