Shooting steel.

salmonchaser

Ammo Smith
Dec 13, 2013
5,118
5,461
Down out of Pendleton I have access to property for as far as I care to shoot. Out to 400 is easy, I can drive all the way. Beyond that I'll have to walk, that's ok too. In any event I've been looking at 1/2 inch thick ar500 steel in various diameters. Looking for some feedback before I tap the trigger, so to speak.
 
Our private club has some steel, small, knock-down silhouette targets that the members can set up for their use. The target backstops are 100-600 yds. The only problem we had was during a hot, dry summer, we had a ground fire that burnt-off over 5 acs. before we got it out. The cause was from some type of AR rounds..We now keep the impact areas disc'd and sprayed to retard any growth.
 
The Caldwell 10" Magnum Rifle gong was my first gong and it is well made. It absorbs .340 Weatherby Magnum rounds at 300 yards just fine leaving only a tiny depression. You should be able to use this with just about anything except maybe a .50 BMG. (y)

The stand is nice as it is light and easy to put together. Mine has absorbed a few hits and still works, but it will have to be reinforced, repaired or replaced at some point. The stand does need to be well anchored as I have knocked it over with the .340 with hits to the gong, not the frame. Lighter rounds shouldn't be a problem.

http://shootsteel.com/ has good prices on various sizes and shapes. They have sales about every two months and one is going on right now. They laser cut their steel and claim it has a less fragile edge than plasma cut steel. I picked up a few "blemished" 3" gongs a while back really cheap. Not sure how a gong can be blemished as they work fine :mrgreen: . They have some nice stand/gong packages though I can't comment on their stands as I haven't used one

Shooting at steel is really satisfying as the only sound better than lead hitting steel is lead hitting game.
 
1/2" AR500 is probably overkill unless you are planning on hitting it with high velocity super rounds at 100. I've got a 3/8" AR500 target that I shoot often that has held up without a mark in the steel for several years with calibers up to 338 Lapua.

Check this guy out. Makes very high quality targets for reasonable prices and supports a good cause. And if memory serves me correctly I think he's not too far away from you.

http://www.jcsteeltargets.com/


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I use a couple of 1/2" AR500 targets from Precision Tactical, here in Wenatchee, Washington:

Link: http://precisiontactical.co/

This one got chewed up pretty bad with some military 5.56 ammo at 50 yards. That's the only thing that has made much of a mark on the target.



It has a stand that PT made - but I often use this cool hanger that works on a typical steel fence post.





Very portable, very useful.

Also - don't ignore the possibility of just using a chunk of AR-500 steel suspended by a piece of stout canvas (I got some old fire-hose material) from a simple frame - it can be less expensive and very useful. I've got one of those as well.

The 1/2" AR500 has been very tough, except for those danged 5.56 military rounds! Even the 300 gr FMJ .375's didn't do anything to it.

Regards, Guy
 
I use the ones from JC Steel as above. I believe that the profits go to charity, or a youth group he works for. Someone on LRH then sold stands, and I bought chain + rebar locally to finish the stands. It works well, and we've sent a lot of loads at the steel.

White spray paint is renewable; we buy Rustoleum "professional" at Lowes.
I then use orange marking paint to put a small dot in the center. Be sure the steel is laying flat, and you will get a nice round mark.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_429752-90-27047 ... ange+paint
 
If anyone is still interested, I just came across this chart, for choosing a steel target:

 
Well I went with 1/2 inch 6"-8" and 12". After talking to the guys at JCsteel I learned that speed kills steel. Given the targets will be engaged by the Jarrett and some others pushing or over 3k. I was also told I'll hear more of a wonk then a ping.
 
Wincheringen":1n8hluzp said:
My local steel recycler has a CNC Plasma cutter and they made targets from my designs out of Hardox.

Which hardness and thickness of Hardox do you use? What does it cost you to create a gong this way?

Thanks in advance.
 
I have been thinking about upgrading a few of the plates at my range as well. Mine are all mild steel. The 300, and 400 are 1" thick, they take a pretty good beating. A lot of metal has been moved around on them. I find that after I get out past 800yards even my 338 RUM with a 250 VLD just splats on the surface.

Might help keep the cost of your range down a bit if you only have the AR 500 for the first 600-700 yards. After that a guy can just pick random squares and circles from the local fab shops, usually at a pretty dang good price.
6.5 SAUM 800.jpg
Above is my 800 yard plate. Still in pretty decent shape after several years of being hit with all sorts of magnums. It even has a .50 BMG or two on it.
338 RUM 500.jpg
The 500 yard plate is a little different story. You can see what the 338 Rum does to it.
 
Whitesheep":1bkai00y said:
Wincheringen":1bkai00y said:
My local steel recycler has a CNC Plasma cutter and they made targets from my designs out of Hardox.

Which hardness and thickness of Hardox do you use? What does it cost you to create a gong this way?

Thanks in advance.


I have 1/4" in the pistol bays, nothing makes a mark on them. 1/2" from 100-300 yards, nothing makes a mark on them either. 3/8" for the game animals @ 300-600, nothing hurts them either.

I believe it is all Hardox 600. They charged me $400-$500 for the sheets and cutting.
 
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