Started loading 300 win mag

[theddguide]

I kind of want to stick with the 300 wsm honestly. Haven't ruled out the win mag yet but I just really like shorter cartridges except for my 270 of course lol. My problem really is finding the rifle I want in 300 wsm. The price of the x bolt pro, which is about the only option from them with a rifle that has weather protection and doesn't have the duratouch crap on the stock, is just crazy to me otherwise it'd be a done deal already

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[PJGunner]

Can anyone explain my primer seating issue? And should I be pushing the shoulders back at all on cases that are fired in the same rifle? Different rifles? Im new to loading belted cases

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This is how I set up my sizing die for bottleneck cartridges.

1. Take a once fired factory round and blacken the neck and shoulders with a Magic Marker or Sharpee pen. Some people like to smoke the neck and shoulder, but I find the Magic Marker/Sharpee pen a bit better.

2. Carefully lubricate the case.

3. Loosen the lock ring on the sizing die and back off about two turns from when the die is set to touch the shell holder.

4. Size the case. Note where the marks are on the case and turn the die down about a half a turn and size again. Turn down some more, and resize again. What you are looking for is the marks on the blackening just touching the shoulder.

5. Clean the lube from the case and try it in the rifle. It may chamber just a bit on the snug side. If so, turn the die down ever so slightly, lube and size again. Wipe off the lube and try in the rifle. If it slides in as easily as a factory round, you should be good to go. If not, usually one more very slight adjustment should fix the problem.

6. Tighten the locking ring for the die and you're done. You have just set your sizing die up for a custom fit to your specific rifle, rather than a generic one size fits all guns.

Paul B.

 

[theddguide]

Can anyone explain my primer seating issue? And should I be pushing the shoulders back at all on cases that are fired in the same rifle? Different rifles? Im new to loading belted cases

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This is how I set up my sizing die for bottleneck cartridges.

1. Take a once fired factory round and blacken the neck and shoulders with a Magic Marker or Sharpee pen. Some people like to smoke the neck and shoulder, but I find the Magic Marker/Sharpee pen a bit better.

2. Carefully lubricate the case.

3. Loosen the lock ring on the sizing die and back off about two turns from when the die is set to touch the shell holder.

4. Size the case. Note where the marks are on the case and turn the die down about a half a turn and size again. Turn down some more, and resize again. What you are looking for is the marks on the blackening just touching the shoulder.

5. Clean the lube from the case and try it in the rifle. It may chamber just a bit on the snug side. If so, turn the die down ever so slightly, lube and size again. Wipe off the lube and try in the rifle. If it slides in as easily as a factory round, you should be good to go. If not, usually one more very slight adjustment should fix the problem.

6. Tighten the locking ring for the die and you're done. You have just set your sizing die up for a custom fit to your specific rifle, rather than a generic one size fits all guns.

Paul B.

I do it essentially the same way but recently bought a headspace comparator to verify what I'm doing. Im basically asking if there's any difference in how you size for a belted mag and from what im gathering the answer is no??

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[SJB358]

You’re spot on. No difference

 

[mjcmichigan]

Montana is making WSM’s in quite a few of their rifles..
Their extreme weather models look good, as do some with high grade woods.


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[diverdown]

I started out bumping my cases the same way and found it worked perfectly for my needs. When the RCBS competition shellholders came out I tried them as they do the same thing without adjusting the sizing die. Worked perfectly and eliminated any guesswork whatsoever!

 

[lhsako]

I do the same. Bump the should back for the specific rifle. Same range. A couple thousandths, no more...

Re the savage vs Mesa.


Personal preference.

I’ve got savages model 111’s, in 223 Rem, 22-250 Rem, 243 Win, 3006 Springfield. Three of the four needed trigger jobs.(all predate accutriggers from savage). Bedding is eh. I’ve had to spend time getting the barrels free floated, and periodically need to touch them to keep them on. The bolts, all took a lot of break in to make them smooth and slick. I like that I can take them hunting in crappy weather and not care too much. That said, they can all shoot 1/2 MOA with handloads. Bottom line they are inexpensive rifles that shoot well, if you put some TLC into them.

I also have a couple Winchester Model 70’s. The triggers were great out of the box, no creep, clean break, adjustable pull. The Extreme Weather model has a nice bell&carlson stock, never had to mess with it(300WM), the other is a standard stock 300WSM. Both are sub MOA at 300 yards. The pre-64 claw feed is awesome.

Christiansen Arms is a solid step up in the Winchester’s, and the Winchester 70’s set the bar high. I don’t believe Savage is in the same league as Winchester model 70’s.

It might not be perfect logic, but I’ve had enough Savages, that I’m done buying quantity and I’m willing to buy fewer if higher quality.

My short list would include Weatherby, Christiansen, Sako, and a couple others I’d need to think about.

I did enjoy shooting Sako and Weatherby (mark v). They are solid.

For sure that savage you are looking at looks nice.

A cheek riser goes a long way to consistently mounting your gun in the field. On the bench, not so much.



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I agree consider Sako ! My good friend shoots Weatherby M5's and they are also good.

 

[Darkhorse]

I load for the 7mm Rem mag and the 300 Win. mag, both are belted cases. I like a belted case. I size mine just enough to fit my chamber and no more. This prevents the case from stretching and splitting.
About your primers seating proud of the primer pocket, this is caused by the little radius at the bottom of the primer pocket. I use a primer pocket uniformer tool to cut out this radius and my primers always sit just below the surface of the primer pocket. Mine is a Lyman hand held. It is used like a pocket cleaner. Usually one complete turn of the tool will cut out all the radius.
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/lyman-p ... ormer-tool

 

[theddguide]

I load for the 7mm Rem mag and the 300 Win. mag, both are belted cases. I like a belted case. I size mine just enough to fit my chamber and no more. This prevents the case from stretching and splitting.
About your primers seating proud of the primer pocket, this is caused by the little radius at the bottom of the primer pocket. I use a primer pocket uniformer tool to cut out this radius and my primers always sit just below the surface of the primer pocket. Mine is a Lyman hand held. It is used like a pocket cleaner. Usually one complete turn of the tool will cut out all the radius.
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/lyman-p ... ormer-tool

I actually went and picked up an rcbs handheld and it works perfectly to seat the primers. Pretty much determined there old lee I have is literally worn out.

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[PearsonRidgeMan]

I'm in my fourth year of reloading. (Newbie, Novice, Neophyte, Beginner).

I have a Wby Vanguard First Lite, 26" bbl, 1:10 twist, factory muzzle break, #2 contour with a synthetic stock.

I would like to use a 200 grn Nosler AccuBond in this setup.

Does anyone have any suggestions which powder to use and what load to start with ??

And yes, I've read Lyman, Nosler, Hodgdon, and Hornady books. But the best I'm getting is 1.5" groups at 100 yds. (1.5 MOA).

Thank YOU !!!

 

[SJB358]

Welcome aboard buddy.

That’s a powerful combo.

H1000 and the 200 AB are usually amazing together. H4831 is also real good, along with Retumbo.

If you could list some details we might be able to help you out some more.

 

[theddguide]

I would try h4831sc or h1000.

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[flyingagg]

Sorry

 

[PearsonRidgeMan]

OK. Here's what I've tried so far:

I've measured my distance to the lands from base of case using Hornady Bullet Gauge w/.30 caliber bushing. Msmt = 0.22" (Whew !! )

I set OAL at 3.340. Used Hornady Headspace Gauge w/.420 bushing to measure distance to shoulder at 2.254". Then set shoulder back 0.002" inch when sizing brass.

I fire-formed brass using 150 grn Silvertip, 68.0 grn IMR 4350, 3.35 OAL = 0.82" @ 100 yd.

Then, after fire-forming brass I used 200 grn AB loaded the following loads (which I checked out results while fire-forming the brass to get a feel for the loads).

H4831SC 70.4 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 1.26" @ 100 yd

H4831SC 70.5 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 1.85" @ 100 yd

H4831SC 70.6 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 1.26" @ 100 yd

H1000 75.0 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 2.40" @ 100 yd.


I've got some 180 grn, factory loads that I'm getting 1.41" 5-shot groups consistently.

What other information do you want/need ? Does this help?

 

[theddguide]

OK. Here's what I've tried so far:

I've measured my distance to the lands from base of case using Hornady Bullet Gauge w/.30 caliber bushing. Msmt = 0.22" (Whew !! )

I set OAL at 3.340. Used Hornady Headspace Gauge w/.420 bushing to measure distance to shoulder at 2.254". Then set shoulder back 0.002" inch when sizing brass.

I fire-formed brass using 150 grn Silvertip, 68.0 grn IMR 4350, 3.35 OAL = 0.82" @ 100 yd.

Then, after fire-forming brass I used 200 grn AB loaded the following loads (which I checked out results while fire-forming the brass to get a feel for the loads).

H4831SC 70.4 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 1.26" @ 100 yd

H4831SC 70.5 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 1.85" @ 100 yd

H4831SC 70.6 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 1.26" @ 100 yd

H1000 75.0 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 2.40" @ 100 yd.


I've got some 180 grn, factory loads that I'm getting 1.41" 5-shot groups consistently.

What other information do you want/need ? Does this help?

Stick with one or two powders. Test in .5 grain increments. For hunting purposes/ rifles, going every .1-.3 makes minimal difference in my opinion. Use a chronograph when testing these loads and stop upping the charge when you reach the velocity you're after, if you get pressure signs, or the velocity is way higher than it should be. That could very well mean you're over pressured as well. Pick you're most accurate loads and go with it



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[SJB358]

OK. Here's what I've tried so far:

I've measured my distance to the lands from base of case using Hornady Bullet Gauge w/.30 caliber bushing. Msmt = 0.22" (Whew !! )

I set OAL at 3.340. Used Hornady Headspace Gauge w/.420 bushing to measure distance to shoulder at 2.254". Then set shoulder back 0.002" inch when sizing brass.

I fire-formed brass using 150 grn Silvertip, 68.0 grn IMR 4350, 3.35 OAL = 0.82" @ 100 yd.

Then, after fire-forming brass I used 200 grn AB loaded the following loads (which I checked out results while fire-forming the brass to get a feel for the loads).

H4831SC 70.4 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 1.26" @ 100 yd

H4831SC 70.5 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 1.85" @ 100 yd

H4831SC 70.6 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 1.26" @ 100 yd

H1000 75.0 grn, WW Western Case, Fed 215M, 200 AB = 2.40" @ 100 yd.


I've got some 180 grn, factory loads that I'm getting 1.41" 5-shot groups consistently.

What other information do you want/need ? Does this help?

So if it were me, without a chronograph your charges of H4831 look very consistent. The one larger group is an anomaly since .1 of powder isn’t enough to change anything in my opinion. So if I were you, I’d probably lengthen the bullet out to .050 off the lands and try that charge of 70.5 again and see what happens. You’re very close



Take pictures of your groups and post them up. We can assist you with what you’ve got going on but your H4831 loads look very good to me. 1.25” is very decent making them a skosh better shouldnt be too big a trick.

Good luck and let us know what you come up with. If you have access to a chronograph I believe we can assist even a bit more.

 

[Thebear_78]

I don’t know if you’ve made your rifle decision yet but I highly recommend the Seekins havak. I was going back and forth over the CA ridgeline and havak for a while. I ended up getting a killer deal on the havak and snapped it up. In 300 win mag.

To be honest aside from a cheek riser this is one of the only rifles that I have found nothing to improves upon. It simple exceeds my expectation every time I take it out. It easily stays .5-.75 moa out to 400 yards. I’m sure it would further but haven’t gotten it out to far yet, The carbon fiber detachable box magazine will allow for nearly 4” COL.

Normal groups with factory Hornady Precision hunter 200gr ELD-X clocking right at 2930fps.


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[Keith1369]

In my 300 IMR 7828 works good with both 180 and 200 Partitions.

Regards

 

[preacher]

I had a CA Mesa in 300WM last year. While a very fine rifle, it still felt a bit heavy for what I wanted. I sold it, used that money on a rifle for my Grand Daughter ( a Kimber 84L Classic .270) but I also bought a new Bergara B14 Hunter in 300WM, just liked how it felt in my hands. I had the B14 skim bedded and installed a Trigger Tech Special, set it on 1 1/2#. Thats it. I ended up using 73gr R23 behind a Barnes 175 LRX for 3080 avg. COAL is 3.5" . It will make one ragged hole if "I hold my mouth right". Now, I'm not a Long Range Hunter, so your needs ( like Bear's Savik) might can benefit from a heavier, more expensive setup. I also bought ( really for my Marine SIL's elk use, he goes down in a godawful "hole of a canyon" for them!) ) an older Kimber 8400 Classic in 300WSM. That thing is a jewel! Very light, 64gr R17/Barnes 168 TTSX and I'm 3168 all day, same bug hole groups and comes with an excellent trigger! Feeds perfect too.

I use an old Sinclair Hand Primer just for the Magnums. I still use my old LEE Hand primer for standards. Some Primer makes are a tad smaller diameter, and some Lots of Brass have tighter pockets. Just a thought for later if you run into it. I personally feel like the Mod 7o is better for the 300 WSM than the longer WM. I've had several and the throat was too long for the Magazine Length to get good accuracy. Not a problem if you want to spend more money and have it lengthened. I like the Mod 700 or clones for the longer WM. I hate the "Accutrigger" or similar on anything but a rimfire! And the Savage reminds me of the ugly girls at dances...they may be wonderful on the dance floor, but hard on the eyes! But thats just me, some guys like them...

 

[lhsako]

A critical factor for me is how a rifle feels in my hands. It's balance, how its shoulders,etc. Handle them before if you can. I've had some split second shot opportunities on big game that fit and feel likely helped me make good shots. Good luck !