To anneal or not?

I loaded my first rounds back in 1954. it wasn't until the mid1970s that I tired annealing my brass. One of the riflesI load for isa Ruger #1 in .375 H&H. I have a cast lead gas checked load that runs a 270 gr. lead bullet at about 2100 FPS Just enough recoil to let you know you've shot something. I have one box of Winchester brass that has been reloaded 20 times and is still good. Note that when reloading the .375 one needs to crimp regardless if the bullet is lead or jacketed. Crimping puts a bit of extra wear on the neck of the case. In theory, I should not have to crimp as I'm using a single hot rifle. I run those bullets over H4350 and crimp for a more regular burn.

That box of Winchester brass was loaded five times, then annealed. The next shooting of five and again I annealed the brass and so on. I don't know if I'll ever shoot something that large again due to health reasons but if I do, you can bet I'll anneal them again after the next five shots.
PJ
 
It all depends on the brass formula and what you want from the brass. Some won't use certain makes of brass because it's to soft. The harder you make a metal the more brittle it becomes. The more brittle it is the more it becomes prone to cracking. When i got my 6.5 prc i started with ADG brass and had cracked necks after 3 firings. I got a annealing machine and started annealing. I have some hornady cases with 20+ firings on them. With the price of brass i reload them till i can't. I bought a couple hundred of different makes of brass for it. It has really cut down on the split necks.
 
I keep seeing ads for an “AGS Custom Annealer” on Facebook, it seems simple and the price is reasonable ($250ish on sale).
Anyone used one? I’ve been thinking about buying one since I use a lot of expensive or difficult to obtain brass.
 
Since I have a detached shop with good ventilation, I use the molten lead method, which my gunsmith recommended. There is absolutely no question as to the temperature I am getting on the brass.
Dan, is that the same as the salt bath using a lee pot, I've been tempted to try that, but the lead would be much easier to get ahold of vs the salts. I may have to reach out and pick your brain a little.
 
Dan, is that the same as the salt bath using a lee pot, I've been tempted to try that, but the lead would be much easier to get ahold of vs the salts. I may have to reach out and pick your brain a little.
Patrick, let's talk. I can call you next week.
 
I’m in the torch and socket camp. I use a short socket as to not take the heat away from my task. I “usually” anneal after two firings. I would start to feel neck tension being different if I don’t.
 
I’ve got a Burstfire annealer and run my brass through it every time before I size my brass. I should have started annealing my brass years ago.

JD338
 
Yep, that simple.
I use a BenchSource, have it all set up, then turn out the lights and spin the case in the double flame and once the neck turns a dull red, I pull it.
This is the same for me , dim lights and set to drop the case at the first sign of the neck starting to glow.
This is where it gets confusing for me.
I’m all about simple, and easy, so now is five Mississippi enough to get that dull red glow, or don’t I really need the dull red glow, or do I need the dull red glow, and five Mississippi not long enough……?😜
 
This is where it gets confusing for me.
I’m all about simple, and easy, so now is five Mississippi enough to get that dull red glow, or don’t I really need the dull red glow, or do I need the dull red glow, and five Mississippi not long enough……?😜
Brass thickness . neck lenght. caliper size makes a difference. How close your brass is to the center of the flamematters. It may take a few seconds longer or a few less. You can get templaq to put on the brass it comes in different temperatures and melts when it reaches the temp. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100735354?pid=988733
 
Here are some pictures of what the brass should look like.https://www.google.com/search?q=pictures+of+annealed+rifle+brass&sca_esv=d6752d8abb827345&source=hp&ei=q-NIasiqJ5v_ptQPv6vV0Ak&iflsig=ABILxe8AAAAAakjxuzyM6QfdXswgccq50Q-CCFNW6pUG&oq=pictures+of+annealed+rifle+br&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6Ih1waWN0dXJlcyBvZiBhbm5lYWxlZCByaWZsZSBicioCCAAyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABSPTJAlDyG1iXpQJwAXgAkAEAmAFaoAGWD6oBAjI5uAEByAEA-AEBmAIeoAKREKgCCsICChAAGAMYjwEY6gLCAgoQLhgDGI8BGOoCwgIREAAYgAQYigUYjQYYsQMYgwHCAgsQLhiABBixAxiDAcICFxAuGIAEGIoFGI0GGLEDGIMBGMcBGNEDwgILEAAYgAQYsQMYgwHCAhEQLhiABBixAxiDARjHARjRA8ICDhAuGIAEGLEDGMcBGNEDwgILEC4YgwEYsQMYgATCAgQQABgDwgIIEAAYgAQYsQPCAggQLhiABBixA8ICBRAAGIAEwgILEC4YgAQYxwEYrwHCAg4QABiABBixAxiDARjJA8ICDhAAGIAEGIoFGLEDGIMBwgIFEC4YgATCAgsQABiABBiKBRiSA8ICCxAAGIAEGIoFGLEDwgIGEAAYFhgewgIIEAAYiQUYogTCAgUQABjvBcICCBAAGIAEGKIEwgIFECEYqwLCAgUQIRifBZgDB_EFaC-6TD2SZLaSBwIzMKAHmqkBsgcCMjm4B4oQwgcGMS4yMS44yAdMgAgB&sclient=gws-wiz#sv=CAMSZxowKg52dHhCaDNxZENrcU9qTTIOdnR4QmgzcWRDa3FPak06Dm9WNFZkVE1pb1dVbmJNIAQqLwobXzJPTklhcGJtSXJ1bDVOb1BfLWk4d1FnXzQ2Eg52dHhCaDNxZENrcU9qTRgAMAEYByDJ8ePJDEoIEAEYASABKAE
 
This is where it gets confusing for me.
I’m all about simple, and easy, so now is five Mississippi enough to get that dull red glow, or don’t I really need the dull red glow, or do I need the dull red glow, and five Mississippi not long enough……?😜
it depends on how fast ya can say Mississippi or is it , Missississippi . don't stutter ! LOL

4, 5 or 6 should be enough to get the dull red , " just starting to glow " as soon as it starts to glow , remove the heat , this time will vary according to brass placement in the flame . try to get the glow quickly , so the heat doesn't travel the case . no need to drop in water , the brass cools quickly when the heats removed . do this in a darkened room , so you can see the glow better . I use the tips of the " blue cone" in the torch flame . I aim the Blue Tips at the neck / shoulder junction . I put a cake pan under my machine to catch the brass . doing it with the socket / drill method . I'll guess a wet rag to drop the brass on would be helpful to keep the hot brass from rolling away , and help cushion the necks from damage .

I remember seeing a wooden jig a guy made , that held the torch at an angle , and also the drill could be rested in it . to give repeatable alignment . a board that sat on the table with a board standing up on both sides . the upright boards had a "V" notch in the tops .
 
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