Weighing Brass ?

[RAY]

I have read that when weighing brass , start with the heavier pieces and use them for your minimum charge and work your way up in charge weight to the lighter brass since the lighter brass has more volume.

Once you find your accurate load with the lighter brass , can you use that load with the heavies ?

Thanks !

 

[Charlie-NY]

There isn't enough difference in weight to make a difference. At least not in my opinion. Most shooters, myself included, don't even bother to weigh brass that will be used for hunting ammo.

 

[NWBlacktail]

I don't weight either. I think after one or two firings (where the brass stretches, and you trim) the brass will get pretty close to evening out anyway.

Hunting ammo, you can get reallllllly accurate ammo without weighing. Competition shooters, well they typically use high end brass that doesn't need to be weighed either.

You have to remember. We're all crazy. Each one of us has our weird hang-ups when it comes to reloading. Mine is trickle charging. I watch the last kernel of powder drop into the pan each time, and I know in my heart it doesn't make a bit of difference if I'm +/- even 0.1 grains. But I do it anyway.

Others its seating depth. Some it's weighing brass. Some people its the primer pockets they worry about. Just pick your poison. :mrgreen:

 

[RAY]

Thanks guys , I guess all this detailed stuff I read about is for bench rest / competition shooting.

The way I understand it is, you reach accuracy before you reach max loads.

I question these things with safety in mind for the most part really.

Thanks again ,Ray

 

[SJB358]

I don't weight sort brass either, nor bullets, but then again, my margin for accuracy is quite a bit less than a match or competition shooter. I do prep my stuff, but that is about as far as I go. I don't think the rifles or the components are the hang up most of the time. I think it is the shooter.. At least in my case.

 

[NWBlacktail]

I don't think the rifles or the components are the hang up most of the time. I think it is the shooter.. At least in my case.

Yeah, that's a whole other level of crazy talk. People that actually think practice shooting is the most important part of accuracy. :roll:

 

[PJGunner]

I don't weigh brass but lately I have been reaming out the flash holes and uniforming the primer pockets, more for the hell of it than anything else. I have several rifles that do shoot MOA or less but they did that before I messed with the flash holes and primer pockets. Just as something to do during our rainy season. :lol: It hasn't hurt anything so what the heck.
Paul B.

 

[Elkman]

Ray says:
The way I understand it is, you reach accuracy before you reach max loads.

Ray, a better way to say it is that you "might" , or can. It is not a constant, many do like " max" loads.

 

[Elkman]

Oh, I do weigh and box my brass by weight. Does it make a difference? I don't know.

 

[Harv6]

I do not. But I also am ONLY trying to reach MOA. Here's a test.... Next time youre at the range, when you have a "flier", Mark it with a sharpy or something and weigh the empty case against the others. If you have a digital scale, weigh a handful of Remington bullets from the same box and tell me how ANYONE gets good groups with that stuff!

 

[RAY]

Thanks guys ! Very helpful !

 

[Darkhorse]

I do weigh my brass and store it by weight. And keep a record of how many times it has been fired.
I admit to being one that has many hangups when it comes to hand loading. For instance I won't hunt with a MOA load. It must come in around a 1/2 MOA for me to hunt with it. Is that neccessary? No. But that's just me.
As far as weighing brass I only do it when it is new or once fired. After I turn the necks to 85% cleanup and trim the length a couple of times it's too late to weigh it then. The reason I weigh is so I can group cases with similar internal volumes. If you weigh and store cases based on the initial weighing, then even after trimming when the weights are likely to change the internal relationship remains similar.