What zero do you use?

[bullet]

I guess if I had only one method of hunting like you, or 30 square miles in all directions that I could see, I would specialize my equipment and change my method of zeroing. But I hunt to many different environments, so I have a general approach that serves me fairly well in all the different places I go. In fact, in the morning I will be in a thicket with a max shot of 35yds and will be using my 358Win, while hunting over a couple of deer scrapes and also will be on the look out for a hog.

That's exactly my point... if there was ever a place where you'd think that equipment needed to be 'specialized'... it would be out here. Yet, over the past 20 years... every time I screw-around with a zero that puts my point of impact further than 2" above my POA... stuff gets missed that should have been a slam dunk (150-200 yards). I reckon it doesn't matter a whole lot though... if you're hunting stuff with a vital zone the size of a basketball...

I have never had that problem, because I hold center of the mass of my target. I don't hold low or high until past 340yds then only out to 440yds. Now I have not missed coyote or bobcat that are 100-250yds because I will only hold center of the mass of what my target gives me and I don't have any problems, but that might be because I have done it this was for 30years or so. I don't have to guess on a quick shot and if hunting a big field I range my distances and know when I am past the range where I hold center of mass which is all the way out to 340 yds. Sure has allowed me to take a lot of game that was crossing a short area and I didn't have much time to take my shot.

 

[Gm weatherby man]

This is what I have done for thirty five years, use a deers average vitals let's say 10" , use safety factor of 2". You got a 8" target. Then I sight in gun using 4 " projectory hieight max I sight in my 303 Brit @ 3 3/4" @ 100, my 257 bee @ 3" at 100, and 30/06@ 3 1/4" @100.

 

[hardpan]

depends on the scope and rifle. For most of my rifles, I use a 300 yd zero. For my scopes and rifles will ballistic reticles, I use a 200 yd zero.

I learned to hunt areas that require a 300 yd cross canyon shot. Hence the 300 yd zero. I also adhere to the 4inch method. Using a 300 yd zero, I can hold meat (center of the deer or hog) to around 350 yds. I also like those fast, flat rounds with over 3100 muzzle and prefer even faster.
hardpan

 

[mcseal2]

I sent one of my Leupold VH reticle scopes in and had the CDS installed, I will be doing it with all of them. I zero the rifle at 200yds and set my 200yd mark on the turret. Then I shoot at 300yds with the turret and the 300yd crosshair both. If these are right I can set my turret to 200yds and use the reticle, or dial precisely with the turret if I have time. I don't find it as confusing as it sounds because I don't use the turret unless I have plenty of time.

I set my duplex scopes for +/- 2.8" and shoot for the heart if I think my target is inside 200yds, center to 300yds. If I think I might have to shoot much past 300yds I take one of the other rifles.

 

[corbin9191]

I zero my rifles in at 200 yards, but the 7mm wsm is zeroed for 270 yards.

 

[YoteSmoker]

22 Hornet 150 yd zero, duplex
204, 22-250, and soon to be 25-06 250 yd zero, duplex w/turrets
7mm08, 30-06 100 yd zero with DOA reticle/calibrated for bullet drop at longer ranges
7mm Mag 200 yd zero, duplex w/turrets

This gives me PBR accuracy to 300+ yds with 204 on up and within 2" or less high at 100 yds or in. Not much to think about; KISS really helps me out in most hunting situations. I don't take time to think about much besides "oh boy there he is", getting the safety off just in time to getmy crosshairs on the kill spot, and shoot. If the animal is out further, I should have more time and be taking my time and make any adjustments.

 

[Travhunter65]

Get a good tactical scope, build a click chart for your cartridge, verify it at the range, and get a good laser range finder. Everything after that is in the freezer!! 8)

 

[Songdog]

Get a good tactical scope, build a click chart for your cartridge, verify it at the range, and get a good laser range finder. Everything after that is in the freezer!! 8)

Anyone who's building a "click chart"... has a looong ways to go before "everything is in the freezer"....

Keep shooting buddy...