Yoteklr
Work, load, shoot, hunt, repeat
- Apr 19, 2022
- 235
- 446
Yes. Gray is what you want.
Winchester Model 70 New Haven CRF Synthetic - Can you improve this stock?
- Thread starter flyingagg
- Start date
"Don't turn your nose up at the push feed M70s because they will shoot."
My preference os for those push feed Winchesters. I've sold off all my pre-64s ears ago but the PFs are still here. Only one New haven pre-64 style Winchester left, a stainless Classic in .338 Win. Mag. That thing damn well likes to beat me to death. A recoil headache in three shots, guaranteed. Probably sell or trade it off come the next gun show.
Paul B.
My preference os for those push feed Winchesters. I've sold off all my pre-64s ears ago but the PFs are still here. Only one New haven pre-64 style Winchester left, a stainless Classic in .338 Win. Mag. That thing damn well likes to beat me to death. A recoil headache in three shots, guaranteed. Probably sell or trade it off come the next gun show.
Paul B.
- Thread starter
- #23
flyingagg
Handloader
- Dec 16, 2019
- 443
- 451
Don’t ask me why, but it’s what I like. New Haven stainless and Mark V Weatherby. I have one of those 338s and. 375h&h. If I do a good job in the 300wm I will bed the 338
You don’t ever have to make an excuse for a good 70 buddy
- Thread starter
- #26
flyingagg
Handloader
- Dec 16, 2019
- 443
- 451
Thanks. My son is supposed to be ordering it. Waiting.
Again, thanks all.
- Thread starter
- #27
flyingagg
Handloader
- Dec 16, 2019
- 443
- 451
Marine Tex came in today and recoil lug has been bedded. I will give it a few days to cure really well and then I will try it out. I have never developed a load for 300WIN, so I will shoot a few factory to see what it says.
- Nov 4, 2004
- 24,325
- 6,612
Try this load...
300 Win Mag
180 gr bullet
75.0 grs RL22
Federal GM215M
Proven load for me in 3 different rifles, sub MOA accuracy.
JD338
Yoteklr
Work, load, shoot, hunt, repeat
- Apr 19, 2022
- 235
- 446
This is a 'universal load' if there ever was one. It's worked in a couple of 300wm barrels for me. Depending on the brand of brass ( case capacity) it could be 74.5 to 75.5 gr of Reloder 22.
If RL22 isn't available try 79.5 to 80.5gr of H1000 with 180gr bullets.
- Thread starter
- #30
flyingagg
Handloader
- Dec 16, 2019
- 443
- 451
Thanks. I do have those. O will give them a try.
- Nov 4, 2004
- 24,325
- 6,612
Yup. I have posted this load in the past and there were several fellas who had the same sub MOA accuracy. It's a great load IF you have RL22.
JD338
- Thread starter
- #32
flyingagg
Handloader
- Dec 16, 2019
- 443
- 451
It's my 300WBY with 200grain Noslers of any flavor recipe so I was saving a couple of pounds. I'll finish cleanup and assembly/troquing today, load some. Not sure when I can hit the range.
Thanks guys.
- Thread starter
- #33
flyingagg
Handloader
- Dec 16, 2019
- 443
- 451
One final question, especially for M70 experts (@SJB358 ). The recoil bedding looks great and its very secured, but my bedding extends about an inch frrom the receiver to the "shank" of the barrel. I assume I should leave it be?
Thank you all for your help. Just learning to do more than just loading.
ASD
Thank you all for your help. Just learning to do more than just loading.
ASD
"One final question, especially for M70 experts (@SJB358 ). The recoil bedding looks great and its very secured, but my bedding extends about an inch frrom the receiver to the "shank" of the barrel. I assume I should leave it be?"
If it's working, I would leave it be. I've done it that way on three different Mauser rifles and accuracy has always been better than before. Did it on a post 64/pre68 M70 .338 Win. mag. and it too shoots better groups. I generally bed the recoils lug and up to two inches of the barrel in front of the receiver. Works for me.
Paul B.
If it's working, I would leave it be. I've done it that way on three different Mauser rifles and accuracy has always been better than before. Did it on a post 64/pre68 M70 .338 Win. mag. and it too shoots better groups. I generally bed the recoils lug and up to two inches of the barrel in front of the receiver. Works for me.
Paul B.
- Thread starter
- #35
flyingagg
Handloader
- Dec 16, 2019
- 443
- 451
Haven’t shot it yet! It won’t be hard to remove if it does not shoot.
- Thread starter
- #37
flyingagg
Handloader
- Dec 16, 2019
- 443
- 451
Thanks again! If the weather permits, I hope to test it Friday. Weekends are just too busy for me at the range.
It was definitely a learning experience. Happy how it looks and feels, and now might attempt in the rest of the magnums.
Cheers
It was definitely a learning experience. Happy how it looks and feels, and now might attempt in the rest of the magnums.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #38
flyingagg
Handloader
- Dec 16, 2019
- 443
- 451
I made a ROOKIE mistake. I had removed the scope before bedding, and did not mark the position on the weaver rail. (only two of my rifles have the rail) So, when I installed it back, I placed it on the WRONG slot, and did not double chake with the laser before I left for the range. (1 hour drive each way). Got there, set up my target, my CED M2 chron, fired the first shot, not on paper. Second and third, same. Take bolt out and look through, way off. Came home, installed the laser boresighter, I run out of "clicks" and realzied what I did. Laser/bore sighted at 50 yards, but will have to wait till next week to try again.
Good news is, the receiver is still snug into the stock, no movememnt, no change.
Good news is, the receiver is still snug into the stock, no movememnt, no change.
Last edited:
DrMike
Ballistician
- Nov 8, 2006
- 36,923
- 5,112
It happens to all of us at one time of another. We hurry and neglect checking twice. It is no fun, but it is instructive.
Darkhorse
Handloader
- Mar 14, 2014
- 800
- 150
This is my Tikka. My problem was how slick the stock was, I couldn't get it to stabilize on bags, shooting offhand was worse. Finally I just painted the stock with a textured spray and that fixed that. There was a lot more to it than that but I don't have time to get into it. That was around 4 years ago and has yet to start peeling.
I use Accra glass gel when bedding a rifle because it stays where I put it. When I do bed this rifle I will do as others have said and drill strategic holes to create a mechanical lock of the gel to stock. I will also clean the inside several more times than seems neccesary. All the oil that seeps from the plastic I want removed if possible. I have had good luck in the past on plastic stocks so it must work pretty good.
I skim bed my wooden stocks. I want a little at the tang and lug area with plenty around the lug. Leave a little wood at both tang and lug for the barreled action to rest on to maintain the same height. I free float the barrel by putting a few layers of electrical tape where I want it free floated starting about 2" from the lug, bed it solid there and skim bed the barrel channel. This helps seal any wood work I've done and helps prevent warpage.
I try and bed it "Stress free". Look up stress free rifle bedding on google. Personally I don't pillar bed I'm not convinced it needs to be done if the rifle is bedded correctly.
