Winchester Model 70 New Haven CRF Synthetic - Can you improve this stock?

These are the methods I used to get the paint to stick to that slick plastic stock.

"I've had this rifle for a long time now, I can't find the bill of sale but I think I bought it around the second year they began importing them. I like it pretty well but there are a few things I don't care for....the bottom piece is plastic instead of metal....the LOP is too long with winter clothing on....and the plastic stock was slick as our Georgia red clay roads after a hard rain. It would slide against my cheek and hand when shooting offhand and it would move around when on sandbags, I never could get it too really lockdown like a wooden stock does. The Tikka is not my only synthetic stock but it is the only one that's this slick.
So I started thinking about painting it to make it a little more grabby. Did a lot of research, then just jumped right in.
The Tikka stock is notorius for being difficult to bed or paint because nothing sticks to it, so this is how I did it.
First thing was a good wipedown with alcohol. Then I removed the recoil pad and plastic filler and the sling studs. And started sanding. Most references say to use 220 grit but I used 100 grit, because I'm not after a smooth finish I'm after a rough finish, something that helps paint stick. I sanded it until all the slick black was off and the surface was gray and rough. Then a trip to the air compressor to blow everything off. Then another good wipe with a clean cloth and alcohol.
Now I'm wearing rubber gloves and outside with the stock hanging on a wire attached to a recoil pad screw. And another good wipedown with alcohol. After drying good it was time to paint. First was several light coats of a Primer/Paint mixture. This was a good rich satin brown. I took care not to let it run.
Two days later I sprayed several light coats of a textured brown paint and let it dry 48 hours. I didn't like it. The surface was just too gritty, it felt like 60 grit sandpaper. So I cut a piece of scuff pad and began to lightly sand the surface. First I took off the sharp points on the entire stock, then applying more pressure I sanded the really offending places, where my cheek contacts the stock, the wrist, and the forend. Now it felt a lot better, still plenty of good grip but nothing sharp now and the cheek, wrist and forend were very comfortable. Next another trip to the air compressor and a light wipedown with alcohol.
Lastly I sprayed several light coats of clear, matte topcoat.
For Camo I took a wadded up paper towel, sprayed a puddle of flat black on a piece of cardboard, dobbed the paper towel and blotted it on the surface.
I think it came out good for a rattle can paint job and fixed the slick surface problem.
Next I cut up some pipe insulation into small square chunks and filled the butt, and compressing the foam with a stick every few handfuls. Now most of that hollow drum sound is gone.
Now I've hunted with this rifle all of November and December, it just feels so much better in the hands now, and there is no sign that any of the paint wants to peel or flake off. Much better."

This is my Tikka. My problem was how slick the stock was, I couldn't get it to stabilize on bags, shooting offhand was worse. Finally I just painted the stock with a textured spray and that fixed that. There was a lot more to it than that but I don't have time to get into it. That was around 4 years ago and has yet to start peeling.
I use Accra glass gel when bedding a rifle because it stays where I put it. When I do bed this rifle I will do as others have said and drill strategic holes to create a mechanical lock of the gel to stock. I will also clean the inside several more times than seems neccesary. All the oil that seeps from the plastic I want removed if possible. I have had good luck in the past on plastic stocks so it must work pretty good.
I skim bed my wooden stocks. I want a little at the tang and lug area with plenty around the lug. Leave a little wood at both tang and lug for the barreled action to rest on to maintain the same height. I free float the barrel by putting a few layers of electrical tape where I want it free floated starting about 2" from the lug, bed it solid there and skim bed the barrel channel. This helps seal any wood work I've done and helps prevent warpage.
I try and bed it "Stress free". Look up stress free rifle bedding on google. Personally I don't pillar bed I'm not convinced it needs to be done if the rifle is bedded correctly.
Nice looking rifle. Great job
It looks a little different now. I put a newer model redi-fit recoil pad from Limbsaver on it. I lost my clip so I bought an extended 5 round clip from Baretta. Found the old clip later though.
That was the original thought when I bought them, (few years ago) not in the plans now, life happens.
The stock actually is not that bad, pretty rigid. Those 1990's synthetic are not as bad as some of the new you get today.
It definitely needs the recoil lug bedded. Debating on pillars. (if it was just one rifle, I could manage to buy the stock, but its more)
I am just a M70 CRF USA Made nut, and to lesser extend, Weatherby
I know what you mean!

I painted my Tikka T3x also.
I didn’t even think to sand it to rough up the plastic so the paint would stick better.
I just cleaned mine with alcohol, let it dry, and painted away.
I used four colors. A dark brown, a little brown with a little more reddish, a forest green and a base coat of khaki.
it might be a little busy for me but it works and after hunting with it all last season and approximately 40 miles on her I haven’t seen any signs of peel.IMG_3876.jpegIMG_3979.jpegIMG_3991.jpeg
I like your final finish better than mine. Looks like you took some time to think it out. I just blobbed some black paint onto mine.
I like your final finish better than mine. Looks like you took some time to think it out. I just blobbed some black paint onto mine.
Thank you
Watched a bunch of videos on how others went about doing theirs, and a lot of pictures from different stock painters and copied those I liked best. I don’t think I’ve ever had an original thought of my own….
I really just don’t like the “black“ plastic look and this remedied that.