257 Roberts trying my patience

JohnD386

Beginner
Jan 16, 2012
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Fellas, I have a Browning 257 Roberts Micro Feather Lite with 20" barrel. I'm not sure of the twist rate in the barrel but I've tried 110gr Accubonds and 115gr Ballistic a Tips with no luck with groups. I've been able to get two rounds touching then 3" flyer usually high to the right. The powders I have used are IMR4064, IMR4350, and H4350. I have tried various amounts of powder and different seating depths. Rings and bases have been checked. This the only rifle in my collection I have not been able to figure out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Is the barrel pressure bedded or free floated? If the end of the barrel is pressure bedded that can sometimes cause those fliers. It could be too much or not enough, either way it's trial and error, or free float the barrel. But sometimes those thin barrels require being pressure bedded, it's really hit or miss? I had a Ruger M77 Mk II 257 Roberts that was that way, I did everything to fix it but it never did, so I sold it!

It could be the load itself though if you are experiencing high SD and ES. Look for a load that has both low and if it's still doing the two and one it might well be the barrel?
 
Barrel is Free Floated. I thought about trying a Partition. Maybe a 100gr. You think that could make difference being a shorter bullet? Would 10 to 15gr in bullet weight make a difference or maybe the length of the bullet? I may be completely wrong but I feel like my issue is that 20" barrel. Something about it being 20". All my other rifles are 22" to 26". Maybe the barrel is not long enough to stabilize the heavier longer bullets. It's got me stumped.
 
The length of the barrel is unlikely to be the issue.

Is it the case that its consistently the third shot that sprays out? What does a five shot group look like?


No harm in trying a shorter bullet, maybe a flat base of some sort.
 
Doubt it's the length of the barrel. I've seen some rifles with 18" barrels that were very accurate.

However, if I'm not mistaken that rifle has a Very Light barrel contour... Really light barrels can have stability issues. I've seen that fixed by full length bedding the barrel.

Or here's a question for you... It's a hunting rifle. A lightweight hunting rifle. To be carried more than shot.

Are the first two shots usually close and zeroed in the bullseye?

If so, what more do you need for a lightweight hunting rifle? The first shot is going to destroy the heart & lungs. The second shot will anchor it if the game starts moving away... The third shot? Well heck, how often does a hunter need a third shot?

Food for thought perhaps.

Regards, Guy
 
You are correct that it is a light weight hunting rifle. You also correct that the first two shots are bull eyes. It just a neat little gun that is annoying me with its groups. I think I'll give some 100gr bullets and a different powder a try. All this gun is used for is Whitetails in Southern Georgia. I had to put in its case Friday and calmly walk away from it. It's a love hate relationship with this gun.
 
It will undoubtedly require a long period between shots to get the groups you want. You could blow liquid oxygen down the tube to cool.
 
I have a Ruger Ultralight .257 Roberts that has just flattened me. It was a gift or it would be long gone.


Good luck, I never got mine to shoot.
 
I have a long way to go before I'll give up on this gun. I wanted one for years and searched high and low for one new in the box. I may take a break for a few weeks then give it another go.
 
JohnD386":s97582pc said:
You are correct that it is a light weight hunting rifle. You also correct that the first two shots are bull eyes. It just a neat little gun that is annoying me with its groups. I think I'll give some 100gr bullets and a different powder a try. All this gun is used for is Whitetails in Southern Georgia. I had to put in its case Friday and calmly walk away from it. It's a love hate relationship with this gun.
First two shots on target. I don't see too much need to be upset. Guy summed it up well.

Be interesting to shoot a two shot group, then come back half an hour later and overlay it with another two shot group. If they print within acceptably close proximity, you have yourself a really good hunting rifle.
 
Since the two bullets you've tried have been boat tails try a flat base like the 87 Grain Hornady Spire Point and the 100 Grain Nosler Partition or 100 Grain Hornady Spire Point.

My Winchester 25-06 was giving me fits until I switched to those bullets. It shows a marked preference for flat base mid-weight loads. As soon as I switched bullets I started getting sub MOA groups with the right powder charge.
 
Trying a flat-base bullet is a good idea. Some rifles prefer them. The 100 gr Hornady is a tough little rascal, perfect for deer.

My buddy Mike just used a 100 gr Hornady to take a whitetail buck at about 140 yards, via a .257 Weatherby w/those high-velocity factory loads. The bullet did a fine job. It's been around for many years and has an excellent reputation, even at Wby speeds. From the Roberts, it should be even better!

Or, there's always the 100 gr Nosler Partition. Another mighty fine, flat base, hunting bullet...

Guy
 
I don't have much to add but with personal experience if I can't get a rifle to shoot Seirras it probly just won't shoot... No Roberts experience but I know of one 257 bee that loves 100 gr s and one that does best with 117 grs. Both owned by the same guy. So like they mentioned try switching bullet weight and profiles. I would start my self with 117 gr pro hunter , H4350 and either a wlr or fed primer seat bullets to max mag length. And run some down range. That is a light whippy barrel and heating between shots is likley some of the difference.
 
JohnD386":25q8owm6 said:
Barrel is Free Floated. I thought about trying a Partition. Maybe a 100gr. You think that could make difference being a shorter bullet? Would 10 to 15gr in bullet weight make a difference or maybe the length of the bullet? I may be completely wrong but I feel like my issue is that 20" barrel. Something about it being 20". All my other rifles are 22" to 26". Maybe the barrel is not long enough to stabilize the heavier longer bullets. It's got me stumped.

In reality shorter barrels are actually stiffer then there longer counter parts of the same contour. Depending on the twist rate of the barrel you have could cause stability issues. I'd agree with trying a flat base bullet as well since they tend to shoot better then boat tails in some cases, and a lighter weight bullet could be tried as well. It really is hit or miss with very light contour barrel issues.

Try placing a folded business card under the forend tip, you only want a little pressure, cut the card in half if needed, and see if that helps?
 
I found this on Forbes Rifles LLC. Mel Forbes has always been know to produce light weight 5 1/2 lbs. firearms that are accurate. Here's what he states in his FAQ page on his web site:

Is the barrel free-floated or bedded?

"All Forbes rifles are bedded the entire length of the stock and barreled action interface. This type of bedding dampers vibrations, increasing potential accuracy and yielding a more consistent POA/POI between projectile weights. "

Very interesting is that POA/POI between different weight bullets remain the same. I'd use the business cards down the barrel channel and see if that helps? If it does, you might like the bed the full length of the barrel as Guy stated.
 
Ordered some 125gr Partitions. I will give the business cards a try next time at the range. Below is a photo of my rifle. I have a Meopta 3-9x42 Meopro sitting on top.
 

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Wow. That's a very pretty rifle right there. I can see why you want it to shoot! It's a looker.
 
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