Action screw torque?

For the 70 I always did 30 inch lbs.

Check Ruger's website for the 77. They have some weird #'s there.
 
FOTIS":2j1anw5h said:
For the 70 I always did 30 inch lbs.

Check Ruger's website for the 77. They have some weird #'s there.

I do the same WT. 30" lbs for wood stocked Model 70's, 45-50 for pillar/aluminum bedded ones. Not sure about the Rugers.
 
For Rugers mine run real good with:


65in/lbs - front
50in/lbs - rear

middle screw just barely held in the action, as soon as it touches go about 1/8 more turn and close the plate.
 
I put 45-50 inch pounds of torque on the front screw of the Model 70. About 30 inch pounds on the rear screw and an 1/8 turn from starting to tighten on the middle screw (5-10 inch pounds max).
 
Oldtrader3":1blqn6rm said:
I put 45-50 inch pounds of torque on the front screw of the Model 70. About 30 inch pounds on the rear screw and an 1/8 turn from starting to tighten on the middle screw (5-10 inch pounds max).

That is what I run in the Pre64 338 Charlie. That is why I have so many problems with garbage Chinese screwdriver bit tips. I know mine shoots really well when it is bolted down tight!
 
I bought a set of hardened gunsmith screwdriver bits from Brownell's, years ago, Scotty. Some of the smaller bits are broken now but I have had them for 45 years. Plus, they have a driver lever also to speed things up a little. They come in kit with a nice box.
 
Most of my rifles are ether steel pillared or have an epoxy land bedded between the action and floorplate. So torque/compression is not being applied directly on wood surface.
 
The owner's manual for the new Ruger Scout (basically a M77) says 90 in-lbs for the angled front screw and 10 in-lbs for the rear screw. Both are hex-head screws, with the front being larger.
 
G'Day Fella's,

FYI, the first thing I do with any Bolt Action rifles I get or work on is as follows;
Before I dismantle the rifle, I use a center punch and place a small "Datum" mark, on the action screw heads @ 12 0'clock (when you are looking at the bottom of the rifle, with its butt on a bench). I then use this "Datum" as my re-tensioning marker point!
Further to this, Kimber definitely use High Quality Action Screws on their rifles, as I usually need to resharpen the center punch after doing this on a Kimber!!!

Also, I always tighten the front action screw first, then the rear!
If like on a Win Model 70, you have a third/middle screw, I place a small drop of Loctite #271 on the start of this third screw. I then tighten the this screw until it starts to tighten up, I then back it off 1/4 (or slightly more) of a turn, so it is holding things together but not applying any tension or distortion to the action!
If you back this screw out to far, the magazine floor plate, won't close!!!

Hope that helps

Doh!
Homer
 
Back
Top