Elk Hunting Caliber

I’ve never hunted Elk before. I would love to, but have never had the opportunity (mostly due to financial constraints)
However, I think if I’m paying a guide to hunt Elk I’m making the decision as to how far I’m going to shoot, and how close I would like to be.
If that guide can’t do that then maybe I’m looking somewhere else?
I understand that there are no guarantees, but if I am paying for the hunt I would like to get reasonably within my comfort zone.
Yes. These outfitters may be hunting in either very open country, or country where long shots are to be expected. Nothing really wrong with that since they were up front about it and there's to prepare for that 600 yard shot.

However, I suspect that most elk are shot at much shorter ranges. I've only taken three.
Bull at about 175 yards: 7mm Rem Mag, 175 gr Nosler Partition
Cow at about 340 yards: 30-06, 165 gr Nosler Ballistic Tip
Cow at about 405 yards: 30-06, 178 gr Hornady ELD-X

That last one worried me a bit. I had a 30-06 and a 6x scope. I've used that combo a lot, but hadn't shot game that far with it. We had stalked as close as we could in some rather open country and were simply out of anything that would conceal us. So, steadied the rifle on a tripod, held appropriate for the wind and range and let one fly. A few inches higher would have been preferable but the bullet broke her upper fore-leg, shattered it really, then punched right through the heart!

*EVEN THEN... She managed to cover another couple of hundred yards, on three legs before I could close with her and finish her at shorter range. Elk are strong and her drive to get back to the herd was strong. Much respect for them. I don't know that I'd be eager to start shooting at an unwounded elk 600 yards away... IF it was known that I'd be facing that shot, I'd start with a rifle, cartridge and scope more suitable for that task. Funny, after that 405 yard cow elk, I started working with a 7mm Rem Mag again, with a 3.5-10x scope.

If 600 doesn't sound like a reasonable idea, find an outfitter that routinely gets hunters to within more reasonable range. :)

Guy
 
The factory drilled hole brakes on Weatherby rifles are only about 30% effective versus the better baffle style brakes which can be over 60% effective. I don't know one person that doesn't shoot better with less recoil.
This man knows a lot about making muzzle brakes that work. I really enjoy the loss of recoil from my 375 Wby with his Beast ll brake. I highly recommend getting one for your 300 Wby for your hunt.
 
I am planning a Wyoming Elk hunt for 2026. I need to be prepared to take shots out to 600 yards. I am looking at a 7mm PRC and 28 Nosler. I would appreciate your thoughts on the best caliber and rifle choices.
Either will easily do the job with good bullets and you knowing how to run it in field conditions with variable atmospherics
 
Jim makes some valid points about testing the accuracy of your rifle from the bench. Then you can see if you can duplicate it laying on your belly. If you can't then it's probably a shooting technique issue. He is also right about 600 and in being relatively easy compare to past that but the rifle, ammo, and shooter must be up to the task.

Another option on ammo is to have someone work up custom ammo for you if you dont reload. It's expensive but typically you'll get 100 rounds of highly accurate ammo. If you've saved your brass from factory ammo that helps and makes it cheaper.

IMO the trigger and brake upgrade I mentioned above are some of the most important things you can do before you start practicing. I have around 40 Trigger Tech and Jewell triggers because I know I shoot better with good light weight triggers. There is a reason benchrest shooters use 1.5-2oz triggers. The factory drilled hole brakes on Weatherby rifles are only about 30% effective versus the better baffle style brakes which can be over 60% effective. I don't know one person that doesn't shoot better with less recoil. It's way easier and cheaper in the long run to aid your accuracy from the get go.
My Accumark has an adjustable Trigger Tech trigger but I honestly don't know what it is set at. I think I will get a trigger pull gage and measure it and make an adjustment if needed. I don't know very much about the different brakes that are available but am certainly interested in learning more.
 
600 yards is a really long shot. Do you routinely shoot to 600 yards? Like often, at a rifle range, with your hunting rifles? That's one heck of a long shot. Yes, others have taken elk at much longer distances. But honestly, taking strong game like elk at 600 is not normal. It's quite unusual. Why 600?

I have found the 7 PRC with good bullets quite capable of excellent long range performance. As are many other cartridges.

Dang... 600? I'm rated as an NRA High Master long range competitor... But I've never taken a shot at game out that far. Targets yes. Game animals no. But that's just me. Please get good at shooting, even in the wind, at 600 before you attempt that shot in the field.

Regards, Guy
@CT.HNTR ,

THIS!
One caveat, I have killed big game (Antelope, mule deer, elk, and one Red Stag) at and beyond 600 yards, over a handful of times.

The 7mm PRC will easily get you to 600 yards with elk, assuming the gun is capable and you are as well.
A well built 280AI or 7mm Rem Mag will also easily get you to a 600 yards for elk as well
Actually, the 6.5 PRC will get you there as well...Thinking the 140 AccuBond or the 127 grain LRX.
I have killed a lot of elk with 6.5's and 7mm's. Yes, I have used 30 cal a couple of times on elk, but none of the shots were over 1/4 mile.
I am not opposed to big calibers for elk in any way.
But I will say, that the big boys (Powder capacity and heavy bullets) recoil a lot when practicing from weird shooting positions or in longer shooting sessions.
Big guns develop bad flinching/form problems, and folks just don't want to practice with a gun that beats them up.
Some people handle them well, but honestly, most people do not handle them well.
I have seen it to many times in shooting schools.

First off, I don't care what the guides say.
My encouragement to you, is to choose a weapon, that you will practice with, and enjoy/comfortable shooting....One that doesn't beat you up when shooting from field positions.
To get good at distance, you must practice shooting at distance.
Find your limits for yourself, with whatever elk rifle you buy, and stick to your limits, no matter what a guide tells you to do.

Yesterday, I was shooting a 15" 6.5 Grendel out to 500 yards on steel. Little G-2 (Think Contender singe shot pistol), with a 15" Bullberry barrel, and some Hornady factory ammo-Fun stuff.
Am I going to use that for elk? NO. Just playing with a new toy:cool:

The point is, I am typically shooting further than a lot of people practice at.
Typically, I run everything out to a grand. I was also practicing shooting from the standing position with a tripod the last two times I went to shoot (Out to 500 yards).

What kind of scope and how are you using it to shoot out to 400 yards?
Are you dialing for distance?
 
There are average brakes, good brakes, and really good ones.
There are many to choose from in each category as well.
This is a 26 Nosler with 147's. Heavy bullet for the caliber. Holland Radial Baffle brake.
In fact all three XP-100's and the one rear grip (6.5-06) are using Holland Radial baffle brakes
Only has one hand on the grip in each video.
The rear grip 6.5-06 is more like rifle recoil for what it's worth.
The centergrip XP's have a mid-grip which creates a pivot point, and muzzle pop is normal and expected.
Great Brakes Matter!😇



280AI (17" barrel)


15.75" 308 Winchester with 155's

6.5-06 with 140 A-Max
 
@CT.HNTR ,

THIS!
One caveat, I have killed big game (Antelope, mule deer, elk, and one Red Stag) at and beyond 600 yards, over a handful of times.

The 7mm PRC will easily get you to 600 yards with elk, assuming the gun is capable and you are as well.
A well built 280AI or 7mm Rem Mag will also easily get you to a 600 yards for elk as well
Actually, the 6.5 PRC will get you there as well...Thinking the 140 AccuBond or the 127 grain LRX.
I have killed a lot of elk with 6.5's and 7mm's. Yes, I have used 30 cal a couple of times on elk, but none of the shots were over 1/4 mile.
I am not opposed to big calibers for elk in any way.
But I will say, that the big boys (Powder capacity and heavy bullets) recoil a lot when practicing from weird shooting positions or in longer shooting sessions.
Big guns develop bad flinching/form problems, and folks just don't want to practice with a gun that beats them up.
Some people handle them well, but honestly, most people do not handle them well.
I have seen it to many times in shooting schools.

First off, I don't care what the guides say.
My encouragement to you, is to choose a weapon, that you will practice with, and enjoy/comfortable shooting....One that doesn't beat you up when shooting from field positions.
To get good at distance, you must practice shooting at distance.
Find your limits for yourself, with whatever elk rifle you buy, and stick to your limits, no matter what a guide tells you to do.

Yesterday, I was shooting a 15" 6.5 Grendel out to 500 yards on steel. Little G-2 (Think Contender singe shot pistol), with a 15" Bullberry barrel, and some Hornady factory ammo-Fun stuff.
Am I going to use that for elk? NO. Just playing with a new toy:cool:

The point is, I am typically shooting further than a lot of people practice at.
Typically, I run everything out to a grand. I was also practicing shooting from the standing position with a tripod the last two times I went to shoot (Out to 500 yards).

What kind of scope and how are you using it to shoot out to 400 yards?
Are you dialing for distance?
I have a Leupold VX6 HD 3-18 x 44 with a CDS turret. My problem is I live in CT and the longest rifle range within driving distance is only 200 yards. I would probably have to leave the state to shoot at longer distances which becomes somewhat problematic for me.
 
I was actually going to make a joke that you’d have to have your target in another state. Be honest with your self, seems like you are and have a great hunt. I started hunting elk at 12 I am 68 and don’t intend to stop anytime soon. It gets in your blood.
 
My Accumark has an adjustable Trigger Tech trigger but I honestly don't know what it is set at. I think I will get a trigger pull gage and measure it and make an adjustment if needed. I don't know very much about the different brakes that are available but am certainly interested in learning more.
If it's the factory Triggertech trigger, it goes down to 2.5 pounds and no lower.
Feel free to unscrew the Allen screw on the bottom of the trigger out quite a bit to get to the lowest setting. Even if the screw falls out, you can screw it back in until you just start to feel it hit the internal spring.
 
CT,
The Leupold VX-6HD 3-18 is an excellent scope.
I have 3 of them, two have the TMOA reticle.
If it were me, I would find a range that offers 400-500 yards make arrangements to shoot out to those distances. A land owner that has a hillside to shoot into may also be a option. You owe it to yourself and the game you hunt.

JD338
 
I have a Leupold VX6 HD 3-18 x 44 with a CDS turret. My problem is I live in CT and the longest rifle range within driving distance is only 200 yards. I would probably have to leave the state to shoot at longer distances which becomes somewhat problematic for me.
Depending on where in CT you are, there is a great 1000 range in Catskill, NY. It is a pain to have to travel to shoot far, but at the end of the day, it is alot of fun!

And after hearing about the set up you have, I'd run it all day long.

One good drill to verify your dial moves correctly and returns to zero is to set a tall target up at close range and run that dial up and down, firing a round each time and then back to zero repeatedly. Sounds silly, but doing it upfront will save your frustration from trying it out on the range close to home before taking it out long.
 
xphunter makes a valid point and I totally agree. Most people struggle shooting the bigger magnums well at long range and bad techniques, flinching, etc are amplified laying in the dirt in awkward shooting positions. If you feel like you struggle a bit with the recoil of your rifle then I'd look to a rifle with lower recoil. You'd be way better off shooting a 6.5PRC that can make accurate shots then worrying about getting scoped or hurting your shoulder shooting your 300 Weatherby. Elk are tough but if you put a good bullet in the right place they die within a fairly short time and distance. My dad has killed quite a few elk with his 6.5CM using 147 ELD-M's out to 600yds. They have all died within about 40yds and a few seconds. I built the rifle and it's crazy accurate. He has shot 7 or 8 groups in the zeros (.0XX", basically one slightly enlarged hole) including one at 200yds. I also have a buddy that has killed quite a few with his 6x47L benchrest gun out to pretty good distances. A 6.5PRC with a good brake is a pussy cat to shoot. My 11 and 12 year old kids shoot theirs out to 600yds laying on their belly and smack my 11 x 11 steel plate consistently. I would let them shoot an elk out to 600yds if we couldn't get closer and they were rock solid. The bottom line is I'd take accuracy over horsepower any day.

PA has at least 1 1000yd range. I'm sure there are other longer ranges or public land within a 3-4 hour drive. It would make for a long day or you could spend the night but there are options. It would probably worth the trip if you can't find anything closer. The Original 1000yd Benchrest Club is for benchrest so they may not be the best for shooting from your belly but you could shoot there to check down range accuracy first. You could probably lay on the concrete next to the bench if nothing else. Another option is to look for PRS shooting events in your area. Most of those are shot to 600+yds.

Make sure you have plenty of ammo if you make long trips like that. If your shooting factory ammo I'd buy numerous boxes of the same lot number or at least make sure your source of ammo has a bunch of the same lot on hand. That way if one load shoots really well at long range you can buy a bunch of it after you shoot. If you prep as well as possible prior to shooting, after a couple range sessions you should have a fairly good idea of your capabilities.

 
CT,
One other thing we should discuss is your rifle scope rings and bases.
With a big scope like your VX-6HD and a 300 Weatherby recoil, it is imperative to have a solid set up. A picatinny rail and good steel rings are a good way to go.

JD338
 
I would like to thank everybody for your feedback and responses on this thread. It was great information and I truly appreciate it. Based on all the feedback I plan to stick with my 300 BEE and plan to tell my guide my ethical shooting distance will be 400 yards max. After all it is hunting and we should be using our hunting skills to get within 400 yards. I have come to realize that one you get past 400 yards the amount of wind drift really starts to accelerate. At 600 yards the wind drift is more than double what it is at 400. my big fear is doping the wind up in the mountains where it is swirling. If you don't judge it correctly your going to wound an animal and that's not what I want to do. By staying within 400 yards I feel much of the risk is reduced. Plus like I said earlier it's hunting so I need to count on my stalking skills to get close. I'll get more satisfaction with this approach. Once again thanks for all the help and great suggestions. It provided me clarity of thought!
 
CT,
One other thing we should discuss is your rifle scope rings and bases.
With a big scope like your VX-6HD and a 300 Weatherby recoil, it is imperative to have a solid set up. A picatinny rail and good steel rings are a good way to go.

JD338
In my experience, a braked 300 Weatherby Accumark is not a lightweight rifle, and recoil is much less that you'd think.
I actually enjoy shooting my braked (now suppressed) 300Wby as the recoil is very manageable.

Having a solid scope setup is always recommended, though.
So far I find Talley one-piece sets to work very sell.
 
I would like to thank everybody for your feedback and responses on this thread. It was great information and I truly appreciate it. Based on all the feedback I plan to stick with my 300 BEE and plan to tell my guide my ethical shooting distance will be 400 yards max. After all it is hunting and we should be using our hunting skills to get within 400 yards. I have come to realize that one you get past 400 yards the amount of wind drift really starts to accelerate. At 600 yards the wind drift is more than double what it is at 400. my big fear is doping the wind up in the mountains where it is swirling. If you don't judge it correctly your going to wound an animal and that's not what I want to do. By staying within 400 yards I feel much of the risk is reduced. Plus like I said earlier it's hunting so I need to count on my stalking skills to get close. I'll get more satisfaction with this approach. Once again thanks for all the help and great suggestions. It provided me clarity of thought!
I am all for you staying within your comfort level (Whatever that is).
I would strongly encourage you to practice beyond your maximum range (400 yards).
When the time of truth comes, 400 yards will be easy peasy.
If you are dealing with funky steep ridges or switchy winds or both (or maybe you are physically exhausted to boot), simply lower your max distance in those circumstances or don't shoot at all.
Practice in wind from field positions...learn your limitations.
Get your heart rate up by pushups, squats or whatever, and then get down and shoot quickly like you would on game.
It will teach you so much.
Once load development is done...Stay Off Of The Bench, unless your guide supplies you with one.
Get used to shooting from field positions.
 
I am all for you staying within your comfort level (Whatever that is).
I would strongly encourage you to practice beyond your maximum range (400 yards).
When the time of truth comes, 400 yards will be easy peasy.
If you are dealing with funky steep ridges or switchy winds or both (or maybe you are physically exhausted to boot), simply lower your max distance in those circumstances or don't shoot at all.
Practice in wind from field positions...learn your limitations.
Get your heart rate up by pushups, squats or whatever, and then get down and shoot quickly like you would on game.
It will teach you so much.
Once load development is done...Stay Off Of The Bench, unless your guide supplies you with one.
Get used to shooting from field positions.

Gotta watch that XPHunter fellow, he keeps leaving the buttstock and part of his rifle barrel home when he shoots and hunts. Shows up with some doggone short thing. It never seems to get any better... ;)

Guy
 
I've never been to Connecticut, pretty sure it has some hilly country, I'm guessing not much over 4K. If you're on a regular workout schedule great! Get after it. When hunting elk in rough country, assuming basic rifle skills, conditioning trumps shooting. I always told my clients if they had to choose between another range day and hill work take the hill work.
Have a great trip.
 
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