How doI anneal new brass ?
- Thread starter lhsako
- Start date
truck driver
Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
- 7,303
- 845
You don't need to anneal new brass. but brass that has been reloaded 4-5 times should be.
There are various ways to anneal brass some simple, some expensive and then there's the use what you have around the house method. There are several you tube videos on how to do it and can explain it much easier than I can and would suggest that you do a search on annealing brass and look at the different videos on the subject and choose which one best fits your skills and pocket book.
There are various ways to anneal brass some simple, some expensive and then there's the use what you have around the house method. There are several you tube videos on how to do it and can explain it much easier than I can and would suggest that you do a search on annealing brass and look at the different videos on the subject and choose which one best fits your skills and pocket book.
joelkdouglas
Handloader
- Jun 5, 2011
- 1,310
- 3
New brass is probably annealed already. After you fire if you can anneal. Every firing of every four of five, it will make your brass last much longer.
6 or so seconds in a blowtorch flame. Get a cordless drill, put a deep socket in the chuck (go to the hardware store and get a bit that will go in the drill on one end and in the socket on the other), and put the brass in the socket. I think a 13 mm socket is perfect for 30-06, would have to go bigger/smaller for magnum or 223 brass heads. Put the brass in the socket, put the shoulder of the brass in the blowtorch flame, count to 6 Mississippi, drop the brass in a metal pan. Water not necessary. Then the next one.
Note: red hot is too hot!
6 or so seconds in a blowtorch flame. Get a cordless drill, put a deep socket in the chuck (go to the hardware store and get a bit that will go in the drill on one end and in the socket on the other), and put the brass in the socket. I think a 13 mm socket is perfect for 30-06, would have to go bigger/smaller for magnum or 223 brass heads. Put the brass in the socket, put the shoulder of the brass in the blowtorch flame, count to 6 Mississippi, drop the brass in a metal pan. Water not necessary. Then the next one.
Note: red hot is too hot!
NWBlacktail
Handloader
- Dec 17, 2011
- 357
- 0
truck driver":1a1rdbsk said:
I actually did just that, thanks for the recommendation. I thought annealing was much more difficult and involved then it actually is. Thanks for suggesting searching You Tube, I had just never gotten around to looking into it.
Wyo7200
Handloader
- Aug 20, 2014
- 565
- 1
Get some templaq 450 and 750 so you know how hot the brass is.
I made my own annealing machine- Youtube search "skippy's case annealer" and you will find videos of it.
I made my own annealing machine- Youtube search "skippy's case annealer" and you will find videos of it.
nvbroncrider
Handloader
- Aug 20, 2011
- 3,085
- 4
Can cause necks to crack from cooling too quickly.
truck driver
Ammo Smith
- Mar 11, 2013
- 7,303
- 845
You want it to air cool or use a damp cloth. Submersing cools the brass too fast.Alderman":azip070q said:
From what I have read about annealing, it's the heating of the metal that promotes the rejuvenation of maleability and "springyness" that is lost when metal is work-hardened. Steel and other ferrous alloys require slow cooling. Brass, copper, and sliver can be cooled even suddenly -- as per dropped in water -- without adverse affects. When I did alot of varminting, I used to anneal my brass every 4-5 firings, every 3 for the 22-250 AI. I stood up the brass in about 3/4" of water in a cookie sheet, heated each piece with a torch for about 6-7 seconds until it just started to change colour, then tipped them over into the water to cool. More important than the cooling speed was the fact that the immediate cooling controlled (or limited) the time that the brass was exposed to the heat, to prevent over annealing. Even more paramountly important than that, was the fact that the water prevented any annealing whatsoever to the case head, and the web, and the lower portion of the case. Only the neck and shoulder of the case should be annealed, and to a lesser degree, the upper body of the case. Any annealing of the case head or the web could cause case failure, and a possible catastrophic event.
I'm sure there are other methods, but I always had success with this, which I learned from the benchrest shooters at my club's rifle range. Life of the brass -- 22-250, 22-250 AI, 243, 308 -- without annealing would be 6-7 firings. Annealing increased life to over 20X fired.
I'm sure there are other methods, but I always had success with this, which I learned from the benchrest shooters at my club's rifle range. Life of the brass -- 22-250, 22-250 AI, 243, 308 -- without annealing would be 6-7 firings. Annealing increased life to over 20X fired.
