No bang!!!

Just set your dies to size back the headspace datum .015/.002" each full length sizing and you will never have a problem with primers not firing again.
 
I understand the shoulder issue. My next question is, what do I do with all the brass I have that is in this batch?
 
WT, try this.

Back your sizing die off so that the shell holder is shy of touching the die by about half the thickness of a dime. Lube a case and run it up into the die. Clean the lube off the case and chamber it in your rifle. If you can feel a bit of snugness or resistance in closing the bolt, then you can probably continue using that brass.

Anytime you FL size, the shoulder of your case is going to begin to flow forward at some point near the top of the stroke. That's why this happens (but it's probably much less pronounced in case designs with minimal taper).

For what it's worth, that is how I adjust my sizing die. I gradually sneak up bumping the shoulder just enough that I can begin to feel the resistance to closing the bolt decreasing.
 
I have seen your problem with many older Ruger 77 rifles. It is a week spring. Replace the firing pin/bolt spring and your problems will go away. When storing your rifle snap it to let the tension off the spring.
 
I would think that it's a combination of weak-spring in rifle (you mentioned previous miss-fires) and a bit harder primers. Winchester Primers have a slightly harder cup than other brands. That would account for the Federal cartridges still functioning (for now).
I store my bolt rifles by rotating the bolt handle up then holding the trigger back and lowering the handle. It eases the firing pin forward that way.
 
Partisan":2ma0kh0c said:
I would think that it's a combination of weak-spring in rifle (you mentioned previous miss-fires) and a bit harder primers. Winchester Primers have a slightly harder cup than other brands. That would account for the Federal cartridges still functioning (for now).
I store my bolt rifles by rotating the bolt handle up then holding the trigger back and lowering the handle. It eases the firing pin forward that way.

I agree but want to add a couple other possibilities: the firing pin/bolt/spring and the case/headspace/primer pocket/primer are two inter-related systems. Factors in either system could exist which could result in weak indents. In the first system, a weak spring and cleanliness combined with appropriate lube has been mentioned. What I would add to that is rough or corroded spring surfaces which contact either the bolt interior or the firing pin. Likewise, rough machining or finishing of the bolt interior especially can hinder the free spring action. Last, any of the moving contact surfaces of the bolt and firing pin can have problems. The solution must lie somewhere within the things already suggested by others and possibly this stuff I just added.
EE2
ps: I mention these other factors based on my experience after joining the crazy bunch who have taken modifying and tuning CO2 pellet rifles to max efficiency levels. Every possible friction source gets polished and lubed, every spring and moving part gets coordinated for force, mass, and inertia optimization. It's been educational, lessons learned apply to all firearms, and the shooting is cheap :grin:
 
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