Redding sizers... my head is spinning

BK · Jul 5, 2012

So I just got a screaming deal on a Redding micrometer seating die, now I need a sizing die. I thought I might try a bushing die, but between being tired and all the choices at Midway, my skull feels as though it's going to explode. I was thinking I might try a bushing die, but I have for options:
standard neck
Type S (bushing) neck
Comp bushing neck
standard FL
Type S (bushing) FL
plus a body die
Sooooo..... what the heck is the difference between a Type S NS and a Comp bushing NS?
If I get a neck sizing die and a body die, I can do exactly the same thing as an FL die if I need to, right?

Ordering bushings: I want Carbide, right? With Carbide, do I need to lube cases (assuming NS, not FL)? Sizing of the bushings... I measure a loaded round's neck at the case mouth and subtract, what? .002"? Or do I want to buy something like -.001" and -.003"?

Crap, maybe I should just buy a Forster. :evil:

Oh, .300 SAUM BTW.

DrMike · Jul 5, 2012

Here you go, Kurt. The answer to your question: http://forsterproducts.com/catalog.asp?prodid=700435&showprevnext=1.

You're welcome. :grin:

SJB358 · Jul 5, 2012

I 2nd Mikes thoughts!

BK · Jul 6, 2012

I don't really need the seater, but that's probably not a bad way to go. I just kinda wanted to try out a bushing die, but maybe you are telling me something about them, in a subtle manner...

Desert Fox · Jul 6, 2012

Kurt,

Type S bushing die is the economical version of the competition die. The body die can only be use to bump the shoulder and must be use sparingly. You probably need to buy both full length and neck die anyway.

You don't really need a carbide bushing by the way. No matter which bushing you choose, it's still advisable to lube the neck. As to the proper bushing size - Measure your loaded round and subtract .002" and that will be the correct size. I hope I made sense. Hard to type from
My I phone.

joelkdouglas · Jul 6, 2012

Kurt,

I use the S-Type dies regularly, with the bushings. I wouldn't spend the money to get the competition sizer, as that only gives you the ability to size the neck in thousands. I prefer to size as much of the neck as I can anyway. The S-Type will only size about 3/4 of the neck.

I use bushings that are 0.002 smaller than a loaded round. For my 30-06 with unturned Lapua brass, that means a 0.334 bushing. For brass neck turned to 0.013 per side or Win brass I have a 0.332 bushing.

I use carbide bushings, and the dry lube graphite stuff. I don't apply grease lube, and with the carbide bushings I only run about every other neck into the graphite container.

Overall I like the bushing dies, and I even started neck turning to make the best use of them. I hate to say it, but my other neck sizer, a Lee Collet die, makes ammo that's as straight without the need to neck turn. But I like using the Redding dies more, as they don't require a certain amount of pressure to get the correct neck tension. You just run the case into the die and it's sized neatly.

Oh, and yes, the body die will bump the shoulder back. It's in essence a full length sizer that does not size the neck.

v/r
Joel

tjen · Jul 9, 2012

First you need to set your requirements for that 300.

I use a type S match neck sizing set for my 223 & 221 rem. Because I want every bit of accuracy I can get from reloading them.

For my 270win I just got a FL die set and up graded the setter die with a micromiter and partical size just maintaining my rifles bolt to shoulder length. I use a shim kit sold by Sinclair and space the die up as needed.

When I do need to bump the shoulder and body on my 22's I will use the shims as well with the body die.