25-06 Test Loads--What Causes This???
- Thread starter M7025-06
- Start date
Ocular focus is so the reticle isn't blurry when you look through the scope.
Once set you should only have to change that if your vision changes.
Parallax will be different at various ranges
Parallax isn't a big factor when hunting, only when you strive for little groups.
When in the field I set mine at 200 yards and don't worry about it.
It's only when I'm shooting paper at various distances that I adjust my parallax.
Once set you should only have to change that if your vision changes.
Parallax will be different at various ranges
Parallax isn't a big factor when hunting, only when you strive for little groups.
When in the field I set mine at 200 yards and don't worry about it.
It's only when I'm shooting paper at various distances that I adjust my parallax.
- Thread starter
- #25
M7025-06
Beginner
- Jun 28, 2014
- 222
- 0
It has a side focus parallax adjustment.
I'll give it a try.
I'll give it a try.
RiverRider
Handloader
- Dec 9, 2008
- 1,454
- 107
The ocular's job is to focus on the reticle. When that is properly set, then the ocular is also properly focused on the objects that are in the same focal plane as the reticle. The AO adjustment then moves the entire image to and fro to bring the target into the same focal plane as the reticle which eliminates parallax error.
- Thread starter
- #27
M7025-06
Beginner
- Jun 28, 2014
- 222
- 0
On a whim, I decided to check the scope rings to make sure nothing was loose (all good) and while I was at it, decided to check to make the scope (reticle) was level...well it wasn't...it was a full bubble off. Not sure how I screwed that up but it's fixed now. I don't know if that was the whole problem but it probably wasn't helping matters any.
G'Day Fella's,
M702506, I haven't read all of the previous posts but in case you haven't resolved this issue?
My best bet is, that there is a bedding problem
Please see below some images of a Win M70 (I assume you are using a Win M70?) in it's prepared state (tapped up and Release agent applied), just prior to me mixing up the epoxy resin and applying it to the stock bedding.
Once the epoxy has cured, I then remove the barreled action from the stock and then remove the black tape you see on the action and barrel!
This then creates slight clearance, at these bedding locations!
Basically, what you are trying to achieve is, to have no other Vertical part other than the actions recoil lug, in contact with the stocks bedding!
By the way, these images only apply to a Win M70 (and similar actions). On a Remington M700 (etc), I have the whole of the barrel floating and none of it in contact with the stocks bedding!!!
Now the thing you need to remember is, the bedding job is referred to this, because what you are trying to achieve is, to have the action (and or barrel) "At Rest" in the bedding/inletting of the rifles stock!
By this I mean, the barreled action is in place in the stocks bedding/inletting, with no unwanted stresses or tension being applied to it, other that the two main action screws!
Given that the Win M70 has Three action screws, you need to be sure that the Middle screw is not applying any tension to the action! Just tighten the middle screw up until you feel Some Tightness, and then loosen it off 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn!
It is quite difficult to analyse the problem with out having it in my hand but there are several other potential causes of this.
The magazine box needs to be just able to move slightly up and down between the floor plate and the bottom of the action, when the action screws are tight (so the magazine box is not being squashed between these two parts and applying unwanted force, to the action and bedding)! So basically, the magazine box needs to be just able to float, when the rifle is assembled!
The best way to confirm that the bedding is correct, is to loosen the middle action screw 1/2 a turn from being tight, loosen the rear action screw the same amount and the confirm that the front action screw is tight!
Now with you sitting in a chair, the butt of the riffle on the ground between your feet and the rifle in pointing toward the ceiling, with your weak hand hold onto the rifle with your trigger finger and thumb touching both the stock forend tip and barrel at this junction. Now place a screw driver/Allen key in the rear action screw and tighten and loosen the rear action screw!
If you can feel ANY movement between the stock and barrel with your weak hands finger and thumb (at the stocks forend tip/barrel junction), it could be the bedding that is at fault!
Basically, if you can feel any movement at this location, it is indicating that the action is not completely At Rest in the bedding!
I hope that complicated description is understandable. If not, please ask me for clarification!
Doh!
Homer
M702506, I haven't read all of the previous posts but in case you haven't resolved this issue?
My best bet is, that there is a bedding problem
Please see below some images of a Win M70 (I assume you are using a Win M70?) in it's prepared state (tapped up and Release agent applied), just prior to me mixing up the epoxy resin and applying it to the stock bedding.
Once the epoxy has cured, I then remove the barreled action from the stock and then remove the black tape you see on the action and barrel!
This then creates slight clearance, at these bedding locations!
Basically, what you are trying to achieve is, to have no other Vertical part other than the actions recoil lug, in contact with the stocks bedding!
By the way, these images only apply to a Win M70 (and similar actions). On a Remington M700 (etc), I have the whole of the barrel floating and none of it in contact with the stocks bedding!!!
Now the thing you need to remember is, the bedding job is referred to this, because what you are trying to achieve is, to have the action (and or barrel) "At Rest" in the bedding/inletting of the rifles stock!
By this I mean, the barreled action is in place in the stocks bedding/inletting, with no unwanted stresses or tension being applied to it, other that the two main action screws!
Given that the Win M70 has Three action screws, you need to be sure that the Middle screw is not applying any tension to the action! Just tighten the middle screw up until you feel Some Tightness, and then loosen it off 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn!
It is quite difficult to analyse the problem with out having it in my hand but there are several other potential causes of this.
The magazine box needs to be just able to move slightly up and down between the floor plate and the bottom of the action, when the action screws are tight (so the magazine box is not being squashed between these two parts and applying unwanted force, to the action and bedding)! So basically, the magazine box needs to be just able to float, when the rifle is assembled!
The best way to confirm that the bedding is correct, is to loosen the middle action screw 1/2 a turn from being tight, loosen the rear action screw the same amount and the confirm that the front action screw is tight!
Now with you sitting in a chair, the butt of the riffle on the ground between your feet and the rifle in pointing toward the ceiling, with your weak hand hold onto the rifle with your trigger finger and thumb touching both the stock forend tip and barrel at this junction. Now place a screw driver/Allen key in the rear action screw and tighten and loosen the rear action screw!
If you can feel ANY movement between the stock and barrel with your weak hands finger and thumb (at the stocks forend tip/barrel junction), it could be the bedding that is at fault!
Basically, if you can feel any movement at this location, it is indicating that the action is not completely At Rest in the bedding!
I hope that complicated description is understandable. If not, please ask me for clarification!
Doh!
Homer
- Thread starter
- #30
M7025-06
Beginner
- Jun 28, 2014
- 222
- 0
Thanks Homer...some good info there.
I checked the bedding like you suggested and I couldn't feel any movement in the action, that and I double checked that the mag box had some clearance...all good there too.
I pulled the action from the stock yesterday, applied some lipstick to the recoil lug and rear tang area just to see where I had contact and where I didn't. The recoil lug looked good.
It was a pretty tight fit around in the area where the rear action screw engages the action so I took some material out around the sides. I don't remember applying any tape to gain some clearance in this area when I bedded it so I'm wondering if the bedding wasn't causing a bind. I also made sure both action screws had some clearance as well.
I checked the bedding like you suggested and I couldn't feel any movement in the action, that and I double checked that the mag box had some clearance...all good there too.
I pulled the action from the stock yesterday, applied some lipstick to the recoil lug and rear tang area just to see where I had contact and where I didn't. The recoil lug looked good.
It was a pretty tight fit around in the area where the rear action screw engages the action so I took some material out around the sides. I don't remember applying any tape to gain some clearance in this area when I bedded it so I'm wondering if the bedding wasn't causing a bind. I also made sure both action screws had some clearance as well.
G'Day Fella's,
M7025-06, yes you are correct and thank you for the reminder on the action screw hole clearance!
Also, the handle of the bolt, should not make any contact with the stock.
Now you have me thinking and wondering about other possible causes?
Can you confirm that the barrel is floating.
Regards
Homer
M7025-06, yes you are correct and thank you for the reminder on the action screw hole clearance!
Also, the handle of the bolt, should not make any contact with the stock.
Now you have me thinking and wondering about other possible causes?
Can you confirm that the barrel is floating.
Regards
Homer
- Thread starter
- #32
M7025-06
Beginner
- Jun 28, 2014
- 222
- 0
Yep...barrel is free floated to about 2" in front of the recoil lug. I can slide, with a tight fit, 2 business cards to the lug.
Wyo7200
Handloader
- Aug 20, 2014
- 565
- 1
Dr. Mike nailed an issue I had with my components. Nosler brass + 110gr AccuBond didn't work- even though I was supposedly on a barrel node. Converted lapua 30-06 brass and 110gr AccuBond, prefect. Nosler brass + 100 gr Btips, perfect. I don't get it, but how exactly does a positrack work in a Plymouth? It just does.
Anyway, about that scope- I trace a line against the rings on my scopes and add an index mark so i can see if my scope is starting to walk or gets out of alignment. Helps with troubleshooting poi shifts.
Are you using a lead sled by chance? Heard that they tend to be rough on scopes.
Anyway, about that scope- I trace a line against the rings on my scopes and add an index mark so i can see if my scope is starting to walk or gets out of alignment. Helps with troubleshooting poi shifts.
Are you using a lead sled by chance? Heard that they tend to be rough on scopes.
Wyo7200
Handloader
- Aug 20, 2014
- 565
- 1
^ I actually think it had something to do with neck tension. My Nosler brass is thin- measuring .010-.012 at the neck.
- Thread starter
- #35
M7025-06
Beginner
- Jun 28, 2014
- 222
- 0
Wyo7200":1o622yan said:
I might try that...thanks for the tip.
I do have a lead sled but I just use it as a rest for cleaning and maintenance. I haven't shot off of it in a couple of years. It created too many bad habits. I don't think this scope has ever been shot off of it.
- Thread starter
- #37
M7025-06
Beginner
- Jun 28, 2014
- 222
- 0
HomerOz":15n9l3a6 said:
I'm hoping to get out Friday morning, so I'll see if the little tweeks I made to the bedding had any effect.
- Thread starter
- #39
M7025-06
Beginner
- Jun 28, 2014
- 222
- 0
Here are the results. I finally got to the range Sunday morning. It was a bit chili (20*-25*) but calm.
After looking at the target when I got home, I have no idea why I didn't shoot more than 3-shots, but it looks like nothing has changed. I made sure to wait until the barrel was cold to the touch between shots and played around with the parallax adjustment like a few of you mentioned.
I made an executive decision Sunday afternoon to leave the 25-06 home for my hog hunting trip the first of April and just bring the 280 & 243 as a backup.
After the Texas trip, I'm gonna try some different bullet and powder combo's before deciding on a barrel swap (maybe :mrgreen: ).
@ 200 yds / 1-2-3 top to bottom:
After looking at the target when I got home, I have no idea why I didn't shoot more than 3-shots, but it looks like nothing has changed. I made sure to wait until the barrel was cold to the touch between shots and played around with the parallax adjustment like a few of you mentioned.
I made an executive decision Sunday afternoon to leave the 25-06 home for my hog hunting trip the first of April and just bring the 280 & 243 as a backup.
After the Texas trip, I'm gonna try some different bullet and powder combo's before deciding on a barrel swap (maybe :mrgreen: ).
@ 200 yds / 1-2-3 top to bottom:
elkeater2
Handloader
- Jan 5, 2009
- 761
- 85
Possibly the scope itself like already mentioned. Maybe though, it could be scope bases and screws. If you shuffle enough bases and screws around, you can get a too long or too short one, or one with a flat where a countersink taper is supposed to be. Whatever, but I know from sad experience that bases can be the tiniest bit loose, shoot looser, and then have the POI walk around with the scope like that. If you ever get it figured out, please tell! Do you have a scope that would easily swap? EE2
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