6x47 vs 6.5x45 Lapua

All have spectacular reputations on other boards I frequent (or just lurk). Personally, I'd go for #2, just because I would prefer a longer barrel. But if/when I do a tacticool 6.5, there's going to be a really good chance it's going to have the Brux interrupted fluting.
 
shoots_5":2lakzysa said:
Well, after running some more numbers with more accurate data and getting some advice I think I'm going to stick with the 6.5x47.

Found a place that has quite a few barrels in stock so no waiting....I hate waiting.
(in no particular order)
Option #1: Rock Creek 6.5mm 8 twist SS Remington Varmint 27" fluted for 24"
Option #2: Obermeyer 6.5mm 8.4 twist SS Remington Varmint 27"
Option #3: Brux 6.5mm 8.5 twist SS Remington Varmint 27" fluted for 24" finish

I'm pretty certain that I'd like to have it fluted to shed a little weight and help with cooling. Of those barrels anyone have any experience with the makers, good or bad? Shilen is the only brand of custom barrel I have any personal experience with. Any tangible difference in 8 twist vs 8.5? Initially I'm thinking I'll be shooting 130VLD's and Accubonds depending on the intended target.
i would get the 1-8 twist you cant over stabalize a bullet but you can definately under stabalize one. i use a 1-8 on my 6.5-284 6.5x47 22x47 and .223. i think if i do a 300 norma i will put a 1-8 on it as well.
 
shoots_5":3pafvscj said:
Well, after running some more numbers with more accurate data and getting some advice I think I'm going to stick with the 6.5x47.

Found a place that has quite a few barrels in stock so no waiting....I hate waiting.
(in no particular order)
Option #1: Rock Creek 6.5mm 8 twist SS Remington Varmint 27" fluted for 24"
Option #2: Obermeyer 6.5mm 8.4 twist SS Remington Varmint 27"
Option #3: Brux 6.5mm 8.5 twist SS Remington Varmint 27" fluted for 24" finish

I'm pretty certain that I'd like to have it fluted to shed a little weight and help with cooling. Of those barrels anyone have any experience with the makers, good or bad? Shilen is the only brand of custom barrel I have any personal experience with. Any tangible difference in 8 twist vs 8.5? Initially I'm thinking I'll be shooting 130VLD's and Accubonds depending on the intended target.

Your choice should be based around the intended purpose of the rifle and the bullets you will be shooting. Are you are going to shoot F-class (20 minutes to shoot 22 rounds), and have it double as a varmint rifle? If you are only going to carry it from your vehicle to a firing line, it may make more sense to have a heavier contour than the Remington varmint. You mention the 130 grain bullets being your choice right now. You will want whatever barrel you go with to be at least 8.5 twist and 8 would be better. I shot Jeff's (usmc89) 6.5X47 at 1050 yards with 130 VLD's and it handled them well. I doubt you will want to go bigger than 130's due to the limits of case capacity in this caliber. That is what mine is being set up to shoot as well.

You mentioned that you are putting this in a Manners T5 stock. Do you have the stock already? There is a 16-18 week wait if you are ordering one out today unless you find a stocking dealer and have your gunsmith do all the inletting. If you have it already, what profile is the barrel channel set up to handle? Like you, I hate to wait and was all set to buy an existing Brux barrel from a stocking dealer in the Remington varmint profile (fluted) that would finish at 26 inches. Once I figured out the Manners stock I have coming would have some pretty serious gaps around the sides of the barrel channel (80 thousandths) with that profile, I decided to wait and get the heavy target contour that wil work better and give a nicer finished look.

I put a Brux 26 inch barrel with an 8.5 twist on a 6.5 WSM last summer and it handles 130 grain bullets very well. That being said, either an 8 or 8.5 twist barrel should handle the bullets you are looking at using. Any of the cut rifle barrel manufacturers make good barrels that clean easy and should give you great groups. Most of it comes down to the reloading process and taking the time to find loads that work for your intended purpose. I personally like Brux from having visited their facility and having Norm spend the time explaining why they do barrels the way they do them. It looks like a old farm shed with all the clutter in their facility, but they turn out some nice barrels. From what I have read, "Boots" Obermeyer is the originator of the way most of the cut rifle barrels are being done by all those Wisconsin companies, so their barrels have to be really good as well. Beer, brats and barrels...can't think of much else Wisconsin is good for :p :mrgreen: .
 
Rifle will be packed around quite a bit so the heavier profile is out. It'll be used primarily for hunting deer and smaller sized game and varmints as well as a long range practice rifle. If I shoot it competitively it would likely be in a tactical style competition. I do already have the stock and it's inletted for the REM varmint already. I'm actually going to be using my 22-250 as the donor to build this rifle. I decided this rifle will do everything it would plus some, and the reloading cost isn't too much more.

I'll probably order the barrel in the next few weeks. Once I finally decide on a smith to build it then I'll send all the parts and have the action fully trued and have the barrel chambered and installed. Planning on finishing it with a coat of cerakote. I'll probably put a muzzle break on it as well to aid in spotting my own shots. Would love to have it suppressed but won't be able to afford that for a bit....
 
Keep us in the loop as to who you use for a 'smith.

Better yet, just PM me. I don't want anybody else jumping in line in front of me! :twisted:
 
I've got a couple of guys in mind but if anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them. Preferably someone local to Oregon or even Washington as I'd prefer to keep things face to face rather than shipping stuff to someone I've never met.

Just signed up for 19 extra hours of work next week that should cover the cost of the barrel.
 
The Obermeyer is available and would be my first choice if it was fluted. The only issue is that it's not fluted and I was hoping to shave a bit of weight off if I can. What, if any, are the disadvantages to having the barrel fluted after it has had the rifling cut?
 
257 Ackley":snob7808 said:
shoots_5":snob7808 said:
Well, after running some more numbers with more accurate data and getting some advice I think I'm going to stick with the 6.5x47.

Found a place that has quite a few barrels in stock so no waiting....I hate waiting.
(in no particular order)
Option #1: Rock Creek 6.5mm 8 twist SS Remington Varmint 27" fluted for 24"
Option #2: Obermeyer 6.5mm 8.4 twist SS Remington Varmint 27"
Option #3: Brux 6.5mm 8.5 twist SS Remington Varmint 27" fluted for 24" finish

I'm pretty certain that I'd like to have it fluted to shed a little weight and help with cooling. Of those barrels anyone have any experience with the makers, good or bad? Shilen is the only brand of custom barrel I have any personal experience with. Any tangible difference in 8 twist vs 8.5? Initially I'm thinking I'll be shooting 130VLD's and Accubonds depending on the intended target.

Your choice should be based around the intended purpose of the rifle and the bullets you will be shooting. Are you are going to shoot F-class (20 minutes to shoot 22 rounds), and have it double as a varmint rifle? If you are only going to carry it from your vehicle to a firing line, it may make more sense to have a heavier contour than the Remington varmint. You mention the 130 grain bullets being your choice right now. You will want whatever barrel you go with to be at least 8.5 twist and 8 would be better. I shot Jeff's (usmc89) 6.5X47 at 1050 yards with 130 VLD's and it handled them well. I doubt you will want to go bigger than 130's due to the limits of case capacity in this caliber. That is what mine is being set up to shoot as well.

You mentioned that you are putting this in a Manners T5 stock. Do you have the stock already? There is a 16-18 week wait if you are ordering one out today unless you find a stocking dealer and have your gunsmith do all the inletting. If you have it already, what profile is the barrel channel set up to handle? Like you, I hate to wait and was all set to buy an existing Brux barrel from a stocking dealer in the Remington varmint profile (fluted) that would finish at 26 inches. Once I figured out the Manners stock I have coming would have some pretty serious gaps around the sides of the barrel channel (80 thousandths) with that profile, I decided to wait and get the heavy target contour that wil work better and give a nicer finished look.

I put a Brux 26 inch barrel with an 8.5 twist on a 6.5 WSM last summer and it handles 130 grain bullets very well. That being said, either an 8 or 8.5 twist barrel should handle the bullets you are looking at using. Any of the cut rifle barrel manufacturers make good barrels that clean easy and should give you great groups. Most of it comes down to the reloading process and taking the time to find loads that work for your intended purpose. I personally like Brux from having visited their facility and having Norm spend the time explaining why they do barrels the way they do them. It looks like a old farm shed with all the clutter in their facility, but they turn out some nice barrels. From what I have read, "Boots" Obermeyer is the originator of the way most of the cut rifle barrels are being done by all those Wisconsin companies, so their barrels have to be really good as well. Beer, brats and barrels...can't think of much else Wisconsin is good for :p :mrgreen: .


Cheese???
 
shoots_5":7hghdzfk said:
The Obermeyer is available and would be my first choice if it was fluted. The only issue is that it's not fluted and I was hoping to shave a bit of weight off if I can. What, if any, are the disadvantages to having the barrel fluted after it has had the rifling cut?
If the person who does the fluting knows what he is doing, it should be fine. Some barrel maker like Broughton won't do it after the barrel has already been profiled and lapped. The reason being the barrel, once finished, has already been through stress relief process. Fluting would induced new stress into the barrel once again.
 
send it to kampfeld customs in michigan they do the best fluting i have seen spiral or traditional barrels and bolts. turnaround is about 10 days. i have two barrels done by them and they shoot just like the the ones that arent fluted. 150 plus shipping and you wont find a tool mark in it.
 
I have talked to two different barrel manufacturers about the subject of fluting after final lapping this past week. Both companies make cut rifle barrels, not button rifled. These companies said it is perfectly fine to do flutes after final lapping if the temperature of the metal is kept at room temperature and the fluting is done in multiple small passes. Kampfield Customs does a great job of explaining how they do fluting on their website.

The biggest difference in fluting from one machinist to the next is the quality of the flutes (chatter marks and clean lines). I have seen the barrels on Jeff's rifles, and they are as clean and smooth as any, and much better than most.

Having said that, I would prefer flutes cut prior to final lapping. :roll:
 
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