Elk Hunting Caliber

So I am glad I asked the question as 600 yards seems like a very long shot to me also. I called and spoke with three outfitters who seem very reputable and all three told me I need to be prepared to take shots out to 600 yards (yikes). I told them I was comfortable taking shots out to a max of 400 yards and they indicated it would be better if I practiced out to 600 yards which to be honest, I am not comfortable with. I currently have a Mark V Bee in 300 WBY and thought that would be great for this hunt shooting 180 grain pills but when the outfitters told be 600 yards, I started thinking I needed something different.
Your .300 Bee will do just fine. being prepae to take shot to 600 yards is a good idea but odds are you won't have to do so.

Others here have a hell of a lot more experience on elk than I but looking back on what elk hunting I have done most have been 200 to 250 yards or less and if push came to shove I'd say less. One the very few what I consider long range shots I have done, I can count only three. Not in any cchroological order one cow elk at 350 yards with a .35 Whelen. Next one farther out was a Mule Deed at 426 paces. Rifle was a 20" barreled .308 Win.. My all time longest ever shot was another cow elk at 520 yards, laser measured. I'm primarily a meat hunter so choose to hunt cow elk rather than a bull. Rifle ws chambered to the .300 Win. Mag, running the 200 gr. Speer Hot Core pushing close to 2900 FPS. I won't bore you with the details but practice was done over three and a half months prior to the hunt. generally two to three times a week. I'd shoot offhand to 100 yards and from sitting and kneeling at 200, 300 400 or 450 I forget which and 500 Meters at my clubs silhouette range. If the elk I shot had been out at 600 yards, she'd have walked. As it was I almost didn't take the shot. It was about 8AM, no wind and the elk had no clue I was there. It was opening day so they weren't all that spooky. I think that was the only time I've ever wished I'd put in for a bull tag. Rhe herd bull was hige. His antlers were such he could have scratched butt with ease. I do belive that elk could have gone high in the books. No matter. I was happy with my eating meat.

I found out later I could have just as easily used a 200 gr. Partition as it will shoot to the same point of impact as the Speer bullet to at least 300 yards. I never tried it farther out. Just shot some to see how they'd shoot. Good luck whichever way you wish to go.
Paul B.
 
I killed a deer at 813yds with a 300RUM and 180 Ballistic Tips. I wouldn't hesitate to use them on a elk but if you handload higher BC bullets like the Bergers or ELD-M'S would be my first choice. If you want a tougher bullet the Super Bulldozer II's, Hammers, or Barnes LRX would be a good choice. The Accubonds and Ballistic Tips have enough BC to shoot 600yds as well but higher BC bullets have flatter trajectories as well as retain more velocity and energy. The flatter trajectory, and typically better accuracy, of the high BC match type bullets basically allow for more fudge factor on longer shots. They have less drop so if your distance measurement is off a bit it's less dramatic (like if the animal moves some from the first place you ranged it and gives you a quick shot at the new distance). The better accuracy allows for slight aim point errors. Trust me, that is common on long shots in field conditions. More times then not shots in the field are uncomfortable and not perfectly solid. Another thing to keep in mind.......the further the shot the longer the time of flight and the higher the chance the animal will move. Many people don't like hunting with light pull weight triggers but they do improve accuracy. I typically hunt with 12oz-1lb triggers. The lower pull weight the less potential to move the rifle when the trigger is pulled. BTW I've shot elk as close as 70yds with 215 Bergers from my 300 magnums. They open faster at that distance but still penetrate quite well.

I would spend a good deal of time now with your Weatherby to see if it will achieve the long range accuracy you think you'll need. The sooner the better so you can make plans for another rifle if you feel you need to. I would explore a better trigger and possibly a better muzzle brake, if you don't mind shooting with a brake. Both will result in better accuracy.
 
I currently have a Mark V Bee in 300 WBY and thought that would be great for this hunt shooting 180 grain pills but when the outfitters told be 600 yards, I started thinking I needed something different.
Which model of Mark V do you have?
 
I have an Accumark with the #3 barrel contour and muzzle brake. It shoots 180 grain Accubonds and Barnes 180 grain TTSX bullets equally well. I average .80 inch three shot groups at 100 yards.
Honestly it sounds like you're set. You might wish to experiment with other bullets but there's nothing wrong with what you have now.

Unless you want to go with a lighter gun off course.
 
.8" at 100 is 4.8" at 600 in theory. In reality it's probably double that from a field shooting position if not larger. If the extreme spread is high you could see a good amount of vertical spread in the groups. I've seen a lot of factory ammo with extreme spreads over 60fps and some even higher. The only real way to know if the rifle is capable is to take it out to those distances laying on your belly in the dirt. If you can consistently shoot into a 8" paper plate at 600yds I'd feel comfortable using your rifle. I'd want more than 95% hits. If you can't do it at 600yds try it at 500yds. Continue to 400 if 500yds isn't possible. Then let the guide know the max your comfortable shooting or try another rifle.
 
.8" at 100 is 4.8" at 600 in theory. In reality it's probably double that from a field shooting position if not larger. If the extreme spread is high you could see a good amount of vertical spread in the groups. I've seen a lot of factory ammo with extreme spreads over 60fps and some even higher. The only real way to know if the rifle is capable is to take it out to those distances laying on your belly in the dirt. If you can consistently shoot into a 8" paper plate at 600yds I'd feel comfortable using your rifle. I'd want more than 95% hits. If you can't do it at 600yds try it at 500yds. Continue to 400 if 500yds isn't possible. Then let the guide know the max your comfortable shooting or try another rifle.
I agree, instead of dealing with theory it's best to actually shoot at that distance to observe actual results.
 
.8" at 100 is 4.8" at 600 in theory. In reality it's probably double that from a field shooting position if not larger. If the extreme spread is high you could see a good amount of vertical spread in the groups. I've seen a lot of factory ammo with extreme spreads over 60fps and some even higher. The only real way to know if the rifle is capable is to take it out to those distances laying on your belly in the dirt. If you can consistently shoot into a 8" paper plate at 600yds I'd feel comfortable using your rifle. I'd want more than 95% hits. If you can't do it at 600yds try it at 500yds. Continue to 400 if 500yds isn't possible. Then let the guide know the max your comfortable shooting or try another rifle.
Very valid point , 1.5 minute target from a bench is a whole lot different than in a field position.
 
you practice at 750, and 600 gets to be a chip shot, have taken dozens at 500 to 800 yards, but this is whitetails,, but the kill zone on elk is larger. it ain't hard. put a good bullet with enough energy in the kill zone and stuff will die.
 
It sounds like you are all set with your Accumark! 300 WBY has got plenty in the tank. Now it boils down to you and your practice at distance. Shooting at distance will allow you obtain accurate dope on your rifle and an understanding of your range limits. Explain that to your guide and he’ll be happy to work with you and your range comfort zone, especially if you’ve put in the effort to come to that conclusion. It’s really disconcerting to the guide when a fella says he can shoot a certain distance because the generic turret on his rifle will twist that far and the ammo box says he has enough energy to get it done. A lot of outfitters charge for providing you with a shot opportunity and you’ll still have to pay if you wound the elk and don’t recover it. That makes for an unhappy guide, outfitter, and hunter! Anyway, just something to chew on when you’re practicing your shooting.
V/R,
Joe
 
.8" at 100 is 4.8" at 600 in theory. In reality it's probably double that from a field shooting position if not larger. If the extreme spread is high you could see a good amount of vertical spread in the groups. I've seen a lot of factory ammo with extreme spreads over 60fps and some even higher. The only real way to know if the rifle is capable is to take it out to those distances laying on your belly in the dirt. If you can consistently shoot into a 8" paper plate at 600yds I'd feel comfortable using your rifle. I'd want more than 95% hits. If you can't do it at 600yds try it at 500yds. Continue to 400 if 500yds isn't possible. Then let the guide know the max your comfortable shooting or try another rifle.
This is it exactly, really no need for further discussion in my opinion.
 
600 yards is a really long shot. Do you routinely shoot to 600 yards? Like often, at a rifle range, with your hunting rifles? That's one heck of a long shot. Yes, others have taken elk at much longer distances. But honestly, taking strong game like elk at 600 is not normal. It's quite unusual. Why 600?

I have found the 7 PRC with good bullets quite capable of excellent long range performance. As are many other cartridges.

Dang... 600? I'm rated as an NRA High Master long range competitor... But I've never taken a shot at game out that far. Targets yes. Game animals no. But that's just me. Please get good at shooting, even in the wind, at 600 before you attempt that shot in the field.

Regards, Guy
I'm with Guy. An unwounded animal at 600 yards I would not take the shot. Now if I hit it at a closer distance and still didn't make the best shot, any chance I got to put another bullet into an already wounded animal, I would take in a heart beat.
 
600 yards is a really long shot. Do you routinely shoot to 600 yards? Like often, at a rifle range, with your hunting rifles? That's one heck of a long shot. Yes, others have taken elk at much longer distances. But honestly, taking strong game like elk at 600 is not normal. It's quite unusual. Why 600?

I have found the 7 PRC with good bullets quite capable of excellent long range performance. As are many other cartridges.

Dang... 600? I'm rated as an NRA High Master long range competitor... But I've never taken a shot at game out that far. Targets yes. Game animals no. But that's just me. Please get good at shooting, even in the wind, at 600 before you attempt that shot in the field.

Regards, Guy
There's a reason that the FTW Ranch (Home of the SAAM Training Centre in Texas) only has ranges and teaches shooting out to 700 yards max...wind gets to be the biggest issue, and then there is the added variable of elevation when facing uphill/downhill shots...including thermals, etc.
No one has ever made a first shot, cold bore hit on their target at 700 yards!
Update: this target is a 9" diameter gong.
 
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my opinion is 600 yards is where things start to come into play . inside of 600 yards is not so involved . I'd use that 300 wby , and practice . if you're good at 400 , start there and work your way out . I recommend you shoot off a bench to start with. this way it takes a little bit of the shooter out of it and lets you see if what you're using is capable . after you test things out , and get your confidence up , then get to shooting from field positions . if you have suitable equipment and ammo , you need practice . all it takes is a will to learn , and good practice . NOBODY , started out as a great long distance shooter , everyone had to work on it .

here is something I've done , to see how well I can do at a certain distance .
 
I’ve never hunted Elk before. I would love to, but have never had the opportunity (mostly due to financial constraints)
However, I think if I’m paying a guide to hunt Elk I’m making the decision as to how far I’m going to shoot, and how close I would like to be.
If that guide can’t do that then maybe I’m looking somewhere else?
I understand that there are no guarantees, but if I am paying for the hunt I would like to get reasonably within my comfort zone.
 
my opinion is 600 yards is where things start to come into play . inside of 600 yards is not so involved . I'd use that 300 wby , and practice . if you're good at 400 , start there and work your way out . I recommend you shoot off a bench to start with. this way it takes a little bit of the shooter out of it and lets you see if what you're using is capable . after you test things out , and get your confidence up , then get to shooting from field positions . if you have suitable equipment and ammo , you need practice . all it takes is a will to learn , and good practice . NOBODY , started out as a great long distance shooter , everyone had to work on it .

here is something I've done , to see how well I can do at a certain distance .
I love this!
im going to start putting this into practice from now on.
thank you for the recommendation.
 
Jim makes some valid points about testing the accuracy of your rifle from the bench. Then you can see if you can duplicate it laying on your belly. If you can't then it's probably a shooting technique issue. He is also right about 600 and in being relatively easy compare to past that but the rifle, ammo, and shooter must be up to the task.

Another option on ammo is to have someone work up custom ammo for you if you dont reload. It's expensive but typically you'll get 100 rounds of highly accurate ammo. If you've saved your brass from factory ammo that helps and makes it cheaper.

IMO the trigger and brake upgrade I mentioned above are some of the most important things you can do before you start practicing. I have around 40 Trigger Tech and Jewell triggers because I know I shoot better with good light weight triggers. There is a reason benchrest shooters use 1.5-2oz triggers. The factory drilled hole brakes on Weatherby rifles are only about 30% effective versus the better baffle style brakes which can be over 60% effective. I don't know one person that doesn't shoot better with less recoil. It's way easier and cheaper in the long run to aid your accuracy from the get go.
 
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