I'm having an issue with deburring the outside of my necks. I get a little lip around the top outside corner that just is impossible to remove. Is this an issue that I should be concerned about. The only thing I think it might hurt would be closing the bolt. I've never had an issue with closing my bolt I don't believe but it just seems like it shouldn't be there. Anyone got a cure?
Help
- Thread starter ronc80
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- Nov 4, 2004
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Can you post a picture
JD338
JD338
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I don't think it would ever show up in a pic. It's just the slightest lip you can feel with your nail
300WSM
Handloader
- Dec 24, 2011
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I know exactly what you speak of.
At least I think I know the page you're on
This came about after trimming......then you de-burr the case....
correct...???
This little lip is there but only on part of the neck.
Correct?
Sound familiar?
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hunter24605
Handloader
- Apr 30, 2016
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Do you crimp? Could it be the remains of a crimp that didn’t blow out or is below the trim line?
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- #11
No I don't crimp. It's at the bottom of the slight chamber the end mill puts on the case. I just did a bunch by Rotating the case on that slight angle in the above photo. Seemed to get most of it. Just feels like if these things had a steaper angle on it. They would remove farther down the outside and not so much from the top edge. Kinda like the vld inside chamfer. Maybe I'm thinking to much. I tend to make things harder then they need to be.
RL338
Handloader
- Mar 23, 2017
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After trimming I use a Lyman outside deburring tool and it leaves a slight edge around the brass like you mention. What I do is use a slight twisting motion with the deburring tool to clean that edge up. As you mention the angle doesn’t match up well to the case.
It is from trimming. And the width of it is because your cutter blade is dull. Or at least not as sharp as it should or could be. When the cutter blade is really sharp it lets just a burr on the front edge of where it was cutting. When a cutter blade is right, the tool you posted will get the burr. When it's not, while it's cutting it's also pushing or rolling back the front edge of the brass as you trim. The farther you trim the more that roll back behind the front edge builds up, which is what Jim referenced about trimming back a lot, but the initial problem still deals with the cutter blade.
That burr on the front edge is what your deburring tool is meant for. The angle of the deburring tool will keep it from touching anything behind the front edge, which is what you're running into.
When it gets bad enough I sharpen my trim cutter blade. But this works well in the meantime..........take a Lee chamfer/deburr tool which I do not like at all to use as it was intended. Turn it around and put it in a 11/16" deep well socket. I use the cutting slot on the end intended for the inside of the neck to cut off that outside burr flat by holding it against the neck and turning the case by hand. The socket becomes a handle. Doesn't take long, and THEN I use a RCBS tool like you posted to final touch up deburr and chamfer the case normal.
That burr on the front edge is what your deburring tool is meant for. The angle of the deburring tool will keep it from touching anything behind the front edge, which is what you're running into.
When it gets bad enough I sharpen my trim cutter blade. But this works well in the meantime..........take a Lee chamfer/deburr tool which I do not like at all to use as it was intended. Turn it around and put it in a 11/16" deep well socket. I use the cutting slot on the end intended for the inside of the neck to cut off that outside burr flat by holding it against the neck and turning the case by hand. The socket becomes a handle. Doesn't take long, and THEN I use a RCBS tool like you posted to final touch up deburr and chamfer the case normal.
P.S. The method I described above with the LEE deburring tool lets you get off that burr without even the beginning of turning the case neck into a knife edge. If it's bad you can get it off with enough spinning of your regular deburring tool, especially going back and forth at sharp angles like you posted, but in the meantime you're also thinning that front edge and by the time you're done you have that case neck too thin and sharp.
I've dealt with your exact issue which is why and how I came up with the LEE alternative. Since then I've learned how to sharpen my cutter blade, but I still feel that burr by hand when I'm done trimming and if I think it needs it, I employ the LEE tool as I described, prior to finishing up with my RCBS like normal.
I've dealt with your exact issue which is why and how I came up with the LEE alternative. Since then I've learned how to sharpen my cutter blade, but I still feel that burr by hand when I'm done trimming and if I think it needs it, I employ the LEE tool as I described, prior to finishing up with my RCBS like normal.
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- #15
I have the WFT that I use for trimming. I don't think it has 100 cases on it so sharpness I don't think is the issue. I've yet to get to my lapua cases or my nosler cases. The ones having the issue were all hornady cases that were originally factory ammo. Might be they are thinner then what I've done in the past. They do seam thin. I did notice my annealer code was smaller so less time in the heat. The hornady cases are for my first 7mm08 so I was just going to get the 50 pieces of brass loaded up so if I wanted to shoot it I could just grab a box and go. Hoping my other cases don't give me fits. Thanks all for your help and ways to get through my burr issue. I'll take any and all knowledge from all of you. Keep it coming.
Thanks
Ron
Thanks
Ron
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- #16
I just thought of something wonder if the drill I have my trimmer in is going in the right direction??? I have a memorial service for pastor of almost 40 years. He retired a few years ago but was one of the greatest men I've ever meet. I'll check when I get home and the honey do list is at least looked at.
I have no experience with a WFT . I'm pretty sure this set up supposed to do everything in one operation , trim length , inside deburr , outside deburr . I think it also sets length from the shoulder . there would be no way of letting the brass grow to be a more close fit to chamber length , if you're interested in doing this . this remaining burr could be a problem due to brass thickness , or just a quirk of these trimmers .
I took a couple pics of my tools . the outside deburr tool seems to work well . put the neck in , push down , and slightly wobble the case around . keep doing this until the burr is gone .it doesn't have a cutter , just the sharp edge of the slits , to do the cutting . I also took a pic , to show the difference between inside deburr tools . the blunt one is the standard tool . the long slow taper one is a VLD tool . I much prefer the VLD tool .
I took a couple pics of my tools . the outside deburr tool seems to work well . put the neck in , push down , and slightly wobble the case around . keep doing this until the burr is gone .it doesn't have a cutter , just the sharp edge of the slits , to do the cutting . I also took a pic , to show the difference between inside deburr tools . the blunt one is the standard tool . the long slow taper one is a VLD tool . I much prefer the VLD tool .
I could be wrong as I'm not familiar with the WFT, but it's still duller than it should be more than likely in my opinion, but I'm not there running it so I don't know for sure
That cutter blade should be like a sharp chain on a chain saw. When a chain is sharp it sucks the saw into the wood and requires virtually no pressure to cut, you just hold it and through the wood it goes. If you have to apply any amount of forward pressure in trimming, that's where that roll back is coming from. A sharp cutter blade should cut and move forward simply off the rotation of the blade, with little to no pressure. 5-6 rotations and it should be trimmed.
I doubt you're spinning it the wrong way. I can't see it cutting at all with the knife edge going across the brass backwards.
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- #19
So got back out to my quiet space. Lol just ran all my nosler brass through the trimmer. Not a single burr. Did a few of my lapua no burr. So I guess I'm going to chalk this up to thinner softer brass. I have another question. Yes the wtf(world's finest trimmer) is cut from the neck or should I say the holder holds it at the neck. But it's still set to the entire length of the case. How would that not allow the case to grow to be more close fit to the chamber. I'm cutting it back just shy of .010 of max case length. Jimbires had mentioned this this is why I'm asking. Plus my trimmer does not chamfer and deburr. It's just a flat mill bit.
Cool beans, so that was an easy fix. None of the above, but the difference in brass. Without reading back through it all, I don't remember if you posted what cartridge this is for? The only Hornady brass I have is for 250 Savage, and while not particularly impressive I can't say I noticed a difference with it in trimming.
