Henry 243 long ranger load data needed

False, every rifle is different.

JD338
JD338, my personal experience, if the rifles are same maker and model, it would be pretty close. I have 3 WBY MKV 300, one Japenese Deluxe and 2 US Accumark. All three shoot 200 AB or 200 PT to 300 yards, same load, very close. I could fine tune more, but no need for their intended purpose.
 
JD338, my personal experience, if the rifles are same maker and model, it would be pretty close. I have 3 WBY MKV 300, one Japenese Deluxe and 2 US Accumark. All three shoot 200 AB or 200 PT to 300 yards, same load, very close. I could fine tune more, but no need for their intended purpose.
Sure, because they are built to pretty much the same spec. But I don't think that applies here, as the suggested load was not being used in another Henry Long Ranger, as I understand it. In fact, I believe it was a bolt gun (vs a lever action). Quite a bit of difference.
 
Sure, because they are built to pretty much the same spec. But I don't think that applies here, as the suggested load was not being used in another Henry Long Ranger, as I understand it. In fact, I believe it was a bolt gun (vs a lever action). Quite a bit of difference.
True. Rifles have to be very simillar, and will still need to develope of the rifle. I only have two Brands/Models of bolt action. Win M70 Classic Stainless and WBY MKV. I have occasionally used loads from my friends with same brand/model/caliber for starting loads, but not before checking with 2-3 loading manuals to make sure the load is safe to beging with. I also run Gordons and QL. I am by no means suggesting others do this, I am just saying it has worked for me.
 
7828 is my favorite.

S0l3nrb.jpg






This is from a 249 dollar Savage axis.
 
JD338, my personal experience, if the rifles are same maker and model, it would be pretty close. I have 3 WBY MKV 300, one Japenese Deluxe and 2 US Accumark. All three shoot 200 AB or 200 PT to 300 yards, same load, very close. I could fine tune more, but no need for their intended purpose.
My point is production guns are just that production. There can be differences in barrels such as rifling and chambering. ie: worn vs. new, etc. Tolerance stack ups can also make a difference , especially when comparing different manufacturers.
All these unseen differences can have an effect on accuracy and safe vs. max/over max pressures loads.
Reloading manuals are reference guides. Taking Internet load data needs to be cross referenced with a couple of reloading manuals.
Just my 50 years of reloading experience speaking here.

JD338
 
Thanks… kinda what I was thinking

So what do you guys do to get the measurements for overal length

I have just been using my caliber and measuring to the tip of the bullets

I saw a video and they use something to measure the ogive ( didn’t know what that was either 😳)

Then they take a resized bullet and put it in the case put some case lube on the bullet and seat it in the rifle using the bolt

I have a lever?

And then crack the bolt quick and pull the bullet.

This gives them the lands or at least a measurement that is “ not jammed” and then they record that

Make up some rounds and back them off that measurement 3 thousands increments and shoot to find a spot where there is good 3 shot group.

As more rounds are shot the barrel changes and so does that measurement.

So then they increase the length to see if it shoots better.

Now these are competition shooters and I am just a 100 yards and under hunter and mostly I am 40 and under recurve hunter so I don’t need that kinda accuracy but I would like to have an idea on how I can bring the groups in a bit atleast.

One fella told me on another post to now play with backing the bullet a bit at a time to bring it in.

Am I all wrong here.

Also I am just using a RCBS 9071 powder scale.. not digital… is that ok

Thanks for all your help gang

Jer
 
I may have missed it , but what are you using for brass. Consistency is key for repeatable loads starting with brass. If you’re using mixed headstamped range pickup brass that will give you some grief.
 
7828 is my favorite.

S0l3nrb.jpg






This is from a 249 dollar Savage axis.
Not far behind you with my $300 Marlin. I shot this the other day while checking a load. I had previously developed the load with IMR 4064, 70gr Nosler Varmageddon, WLR primers, and Federal brass. But I wasn't satisfied with the short life of the brass, so I moved it to Starline instead. Backed off a grain on the powder and worked it back up. The sweet spot with the Starline brass was .2gr less than with the Federal, but shot to the same POI.

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Hey is there a way to tell what a factory load is using for powder?

I pulled a federal 100 grain 243 shok bullet apart with my new Hornady puller today just to try it out.

It had 43.3 grains of some pretty small powder half the size easily of what 4350 looks like.

I could take a pic of both if someone knew what it might be.

Does anyone else do this or is it a mute point,

Thanks Jer
 
Hey is there a way to tell what a factory load is using for powder?

I pulled a federal 100 grain 243 shok bullet apart with my new Hornady puller today just to try it out.

It had 43.3 grains of some pretty small powder half the size easily of what 4350 looks like.

I could take a pic of both if someone knew what it might be.

Does anyone else do this or is it a mute point,

Thanks Jer
It’s usually a powder that isn’t available to reloaders but it may be pretty close to something available in some cases. I imagine that in some cases it may even be the same as what is available to us but impossible to know for sure. Add a pic if you want, we can guess but don’t take it to the bank…
 
Quiet often commercial loads use custom powders that are not readily available to the public.
You can compare your factory charge weight with your reloading manuals but it will only be a guess.
Noting that it's a ball or extruded type powder is about all you can compare.

JD338
 
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