hunter1276
Beginner
- Jan 24, 2012
- 63
- 0
what would be a good choice of a scope with turetts for around 350-400 42- 50 power kinda limited atm baby coming and my new addiction along with my archery is rifles lol and her patience is thin lol
scope choice
- Thread starter hunter1276
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If you just want turrets, you can find a scope with them. It's probably going to run you something like $400 or more, to get good glass with turrets. You could look into a Nikon Buckmaster, Burris FullField II (or E1), or Bushnell Elite, which may offer you the options you want. You could also go to cameralandny.com and look at the Minox open box deals to see if any of them fit what you're looking for. Doug has some great deals over there, and excellent service.
I'm thinking you mean a 42-50mm objective lens, as the power range is going to be something like 4-12x or 4-16x, most likely. I wouldn't go any bigger than that for a 350-400yd scope. In reality, if you're shooting a 270Win or 30-06 (following your other thread) you could get away with a 3-9x40, some good loads that shoot accurately, and just use common sense holdover for shooting longer distances, depending on the game or targets you're wanting to shoot. If it's deer, do a little homework on the topic of "maximum point blank range" (PBRmax) and you'll find out that you can adjust your scope to keep your groups within, say, a 5" circle out to a known distance and then use holdover for slightly longer ranges. Taking my 30-06 for example, I shoot 168gr bullets at 2900fps from that rifle. I first calculated my PBRmax with a ballistic calculator (http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi) and then tested it at the ranges I intended to shoot, checking it every 50yds out to 400yds. With my setup, I can zero the rifle 2.2 (2.25, in reality) inches high at 100yds, and be no more than 2.5" above my point of aim nor 2.5" below my point of aim (along the trajectory of the bullet) out to just over 250yds (the calculator said 270yds and I didn't shoot at exactly 270yds, just 250 & 300) and then I'm about 6" low at 300yds (calculator said 5") and then I'm about 12" low at 350yds (calculator said 10). Now, knowing what I know about white-tails (what I hunt here in north Alabama) I now know I can hold dead on to 260-270yds, hold halfway between dead on and the top of his back at 300, and hold at the top of his back at 350yds, without adjusting my scope at all, and know I'm going to hit within the 8-10" circle that is the vitals on a white-tail. It's quick and fairly easy, and all I had to do was make up a range card with my info on it, and then tape it on the stock. I did it on medium green paper, and taped over it with waterproof clear tape (get the satin finish or it's too glossy...). Just range the deer, check the chart, and go. In fact, when I'm in the field, I can usually memorize the two or three numbers I need to know and end up not needing the range card, but I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. I had someone ask me how I take a running shot at a buck at 300yds if I have to range him and look at the card, to which my response was, "I don't take running shots at deer at 300yds." A man's got to know his limitations, and running deer at 100yds is just about mine. I much prefer to take shots at deer which are unaware I'm even there, and are milling around feeding and doing what they do.
I took a doe at 185yds this year with that rifle. Held right on the vitals and hit her through the lungs. She kept milling around like I'd missed, so I hit her again, and she dropped. Either shot was a kill shot. She just didn't know it at first. I'm all about easy when I'm in the field. If you want longer holdover points, consider one of the ballistic reticles that are available from most manufacturers now. Some are very "over busy" but many are just a few extra tick marks on the upright crosshair, allowing for better hold points at longer distances. Again, you'll have to shoot your rifle at ranges out to 350-400yds to see where the tick marks are "zeroed" and then make up a range card for your rifle. If you only have one rifle, it might be just as easy to memorize the information. I'd still make the card and carry it in your pocket for reference, just in case, when you're hunting.
I'm thinking you mean a 42-50mm objective lens, as the power range is going to be something like 4-12x or 4-16x, most likely. I wouldn't go any bigger than that for a 350-400yd scope. In reality, if you're shooting a 270Win or 30-06 (following your other thread) you could get away with a 3-9x40, some good loads that shoot accurately, and just use common sense holdover for shooting longer distances, depending on the game or targets you're wanting to shoot. If it's deer, do a little homework on the topic of "maximum point blank range" (PBRmax) and you'll find out that you can adjust your scope to keep your groups within, say, a 5" circle out to a known distance and then use holdover for slightly longer ranges. Taking my 30-06 for example, I shoot 168gr bullets at 2900fps from that rifle. I first calculated my PBRmax with a ballistic calculator (http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi) and then tested it at the ranges I intended to shoot, checking it every 50yds out to 400yds. With my setup, I can zero the rifle 2.2 (2.25, in reality) inches high at 100yds, and be no more than 2.5" above my point of aim nor 2.5" below my point of aim (along the trajectory of the bullet) out to just over 250yds (the calculator said 270yds and I didn't shoot at exactly 270yds, just 250 & 300) and then I'm about 6" low at 300yds (calculator said 5") and then I'm about 12" low at 350yds (calculator said 10). Now, knowing what I know about white-tails (what I hunt here in north Alabama) I now know I can hold dead on to 260-270yds, hold halfway between dead on and the top of his back at 300, and hold at the top of his back at 350yds, without adjusting my scope at all, and know I'm going to hit within the 8-10" circle that is the vitals on a white-tail. It's quick and fairly easy, and all I had to do was make up a range card with my info on it, and then tape it on the stock. I did it on medium green paper, and taped over it with waterproof clear tape (get the satin finish or it's too glossy...). Just range the deer, check the chart, and go. In fact, when I'm in the field, I can usually memorize the two or three numbers I need to know and end up not needing the range card, but I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. I had someone ask me how I take a running shot at a buck at 300yds if I have to range him and look at the card, to which my response was, "I don't take running shots at deer at 300yds." A man's got to know his limitations, and running deer at 100yds is just about mine. I much prefer to take shots at deer which are unaware I'm even there, and are milling around feeding and doing what they do.
I took a doe at 185yds this year with that rifle. Held right on the vitals and hit her through the lungs. She kept milling around like I'd missed, so I hit her again, and she dropped. Either shot was a kill shot. She just didn't know it at first. I'm all about easy when I'm in the field. If you want longer holdover points, consider one of the ballistic reticles that are available from most manufacturers now. Some are very "over busy" but many are just a few extra tick marks on the upright crosshair, allowing for better hold points at longer distances. Again, you'll have to shoot your rifle at ranges out to 350-400yds to see where the tick marks are "zeroed" and then make up a range card for your rifle. If you only have one rifle, it might be just as easy to memorize the information. I'd still make the card and carry it in your pocket for reference, just in case, when you're hunting.
300WSM
Handloader
- Dec 24, 2011
- 860
- 487
Bushnell offers 8-32 power scopes in multiple classes.
Guy Miner
Master Loader
- Apr 6, 2006
- 17,746
- 5,818
Shop for a good used Leupold. Scope prices tend to fall off quickly once they've been used, particularly if they have the normal scratches and dings a hunting scope picks up. Even better if it's not the latest and greatest model year from Leupold. I've picked up some for very good prices. Sometimes the fixed power scopes are even better deals, which is fine with me, because I'm a bit of a nut about fixed power scopes. I like 'em.
The cool thing is that not only do you have a good scope, but Leupold honors the warranty on it even if you're not the original owner!
I bought a used 12x Leupold target scope, with turrets and adjustable objective for $400. It's served well in target competition and also in the field on rockchucks and sage rats. It had also been worked over to produce extremely sharp and reliable "clicks" by a guy who does custom scope work. Very nice scope.
Shop around - you may just find your Leupold. Or take a look for the scope with the silly name "Super Sniper" - they're not American made, but they are really very good for the money. Sold by SWFA.
Regards, Guy
The cool thing is that not only do you have a good scope, but Leupold honors the warranty on it even if you're not the original owner!
I bought a used 12x Leupold target scope, with turrets and adjustable objective for $400. It's served well in target competition and also in the field on rockchucks and sage rats. It had also been worked over to produce extremely sharp and reliable "clicks" by a guy who does custom scope work. Very nice scope.
Shop around - you may just find your Leupold. Or take a look for the scope with the silly name "Super Sniper" - they're not American made, but they are really very good for the money. Sold by SWFA.
Regards, Guy
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,276
- 2,988
What power? 42-50?
- Thread starter
- #7
hunter1276
Beginner
- Jan 24, 2012
- 63
- 0
50 power
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I don't think there's a single 50 power rifle scope available.
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,276
- 2,988
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,276
- 2,988
sightron makes a 10-50 power scope . Jim
http://www.sightron.com/index.php?actio ... d=6&id=173
http://www.sightron.com/index.php?actio ... d=6&id=172
http://www.sightron.com/index.php?actio ... d=6&id=173
http://www.sightron.com/index.php?actio ... d=6&id=172
i think if your looking for a 50x scope in that price range you will have to use it at night once you get past 30 power any way. i will second what guy said about the leupold scopes go find a 6.5-20x40 for 450 and save up a little more and have them put the m1 knobs on it last time i had one done it was around 180 bucks. then if you want upgrade the reticle down the road they will do that as well for around 220 bucks. i would rather have a leupold with a max power at 20 than a inexpensive scope that goes to 50 power. i cant imaginge what the heart beat would do to a scope set at 50x.
- Nov 4, 2004
- 25,166
- 8,429
I agree with Guy and USMC 89.
JD338
JD338
nvbroncrider
Handloader
- Aug 20, 2011
- 3,085
- 4
usmc 89":2shx7hh0 said:
Without a doubt there! I can see my heartbeat in iron sights and while using a cutting torch drives me bonkers!! 50X man you would be moving an inch a pump I'd imagine.
- Thread starter
- #16
hunter1276
Beginner
- Jan 24, 2012
- 63
- 0
no i misunderstood lol ......... max power 24 i was talking objective hehe atm i have a 6.5-24x50 on .223 am looking to upgrade im shooting ridge top to ridge top, valley side to valley side. i miss understood you lol sorry
In the past 10 years I have run the gamut of turreted long range optics... all the way up to 24x... and as low as a fixed 6x. I've learned a couple of things in the process, take them or leave them... for what they're worth:
First, I only use as much magnification as the rifle will allow. I mean, I don't want optics too large to spot my own shots. I find it much more beneficial to see what happens, than rely on someone else (or my ears) to confirm a hit/miss and make correction calls. At this time, I don't own a scope with more that 12x...
Second, more isn't necessarily better. I just ordered a fixed 8x Leupold with target turrets for my .243... and I will regularly shoot this gun out to 800-1000 yards. Resolution, repeatability, and reliability are far more important than magnification (in all optics)... and for under $400 I don't think you'll find a better representation of the three "R"-pillars.
Third, if you're shootin' it at critters... then you're shootin' it in times of questionable light... and 24x just don't cut it in low light... even with a 50mm obj. Things like high quality glass with proper lens coatings (to transmit maximum light), forgiving eye box, and minimal parallax (preferably AO, but I've used many non-AO scopes that exhibit little parallax too) are also paramount for a piece of LR glass... though none take a back seat to the three "R"s... you don't get all of those things on a big piece of glass for sub-$400 (even sub-$650 it's tough).
I spent just about as much money on my long range optics education, as I did on my first two years of college... seriously! And what happened? I ended up almost exactly where I began... 12 years ago I was shooting a Rem. 700 BDL-V in .243 Win, it wore a fixed 7.5x Leupold with an AO and turret for elevation.... the only difference now, is that the .243 I'm running is a sporter, and the bullets I'm shooting for LR work are much better (87 Hornady HPBT back then, and the fabulous 105 Amax now)... and the Leupold is a fixed 8x (when it gets here). Man, I wish I could get that 8 g's back....
First, I only use as much magnification as the rifle will allow. I mean, I don't want optics too large to spot my own shots. I find it much more beneficial to see what happens, than rely on someone else (or my ears) to confirm a hit/miss and make correction calls. At this time, I don't own a scope with more that 12x...
Second, more isn't necessarily better. I just ordered a fixed 8x Leupold with target turrets for my .243... and I will regularly shoot this gun out to 800-1000 yards. Resolution, repeatability, and reliability are far more important than magnification (in all optics)... and for under $400 I don't think you'll find a better representation of the three "R"-pillars.
Third, if you're shootin' it at critters... then you're shootin' it in times of questionable light... and 24x just don't cut it in low light... even with a 50mm obj. Things like high quality glass with proper lens coatings (to transmit maximum light), forgiving eye box, and minimal parallax (preferably AO, but I've used many non-AO scopes that exhibit little parallax too) are also paramount for a piece of LR glass... though none take a back seat to the three "R"s... you don't get all of those things on a big piece of glass for sub-$400 (even sub-$650 it's tough).
I spent just about as much money on my long range optics education, as I did on my first two years of college... seriously! And what happened? I ended up almost exactly where I began... 12 years ago I was shooting a Rem. 700 BDL-V in .243 Win, it wore a fixed 7.5x Leupold with an AO and turret for elevation.... the only difference now, is that the .243 I'm running is a sporter, and the bullets I'm shooting for LR work are much better (87 Hornady HPBT back then, and the fabulous 105 Amax now)... and the Leupold is a fixed 8x (when it gets here). Man, I wish I could get that 8 g's back....
