Trim to length question

RAY

Handloader
Jan 31, 2015
289
0
I know 3006 should be trimmed to 2.484 , I have the Lyman trimmer that chucks in a drill but it cuts down .007" shorter.
is this a concern ?

When neck sizing , how do you know if you are sizing the whole neck ?
 
.007 shorter should not cause any problems . can you just adjust the trimmer so it cuts .007 longer ?

on new brass I only neck size the first time or two , to get my brass fully expanded . after that the brass will start to get tight in the chamber . then I full length resize , but I adjust the die to only bump the shoulder back about .002 . the easiest way to see how much neck you are sizing is to dip the neck in the powdered mica . the die will rub off the mica . I suppose you could color the neck with a sharpie , or smoke it with a candle . just anything like this will work .
 
Jim has already answered your question but I will add a couple of things. There is no need to size the whole neck, 2/3 is adequate as long as the cartridge chambers. Trimming, is dependent upon load intensity, I trim usually about every third time, on average. Remember I perceive myself a fairly lazy as far as hand loading goes. You can spends hours on prepping. I don't.
 
Thanks guys, I will be FL sizing, I'm using the Neck sizer for deformed case mouths.

In my mind ,by sizing the whole neck, I was thinking in terms of seating a bullet a calibers depth and that would mean to me having that much tension. So that's why I'm trying to understand.

Please explain trimming for load intinsity.
 
Ray
What I was saying is that, if you are using maximum ( hotter, higher intensity) loads, then you will probably need to trim your cases more often. Full length re-sizing your cases each time you load them "will" reduce your case life. Case life can be extended by "neck sizing" and watching your shoulder creep and full length sizing when the shoulder moves forward. Hopefully this makes sense :grin:
 
Ray , I'm assuming your working with new brass since you are wanting to round out the necks . I would not trim new brass unless it is longer than the max length . new brass will really change dimensions after being fired , and could end up being shorter yet .
 
Apologies, I should have been clearer.
I was checking my trim tool to see what depth it cuts to.

I'm gonna be using new Nosler brass , I'm basically getting to know my equipment with cheap brass.

I understand about trimming and hot loads now , thanks.

I would like to know a little more about the 2/3 neck tension thing.
I followed rcbs info on adjustment for the neck sizer.

Thanks again !!!!
 
Again I will try to make my self more clear. You don't need to re-size the entire neck after shooting to be able to hold the bullet in place as long as it chambers in the rifle. That's why I threw out the "2/3" of the neck length as a minimum. I think, as you mentioned a "a caliber" is used as a minimum by a lot of reloaders. I try to stay just forward of the taper when I size, it just makes me feel more comfortable. It makes no difference what brass you are using, the process is the same for all.
 
Back
Top