leupold down?

Oh well.... I did email them other day and they said they
were working on it. I'm just not the equipment failure kind of guy
and I'm hoping all will be well. If I have to spend 2K on a NF
so be it....
 
I was gonna suggest that since you have to send it to Leupy you might as well have an M1 elevation knob installed...
 
Got it back today when I got home.
They only put two small dings on both ends
guess when they disassembled it. Looking through
the objective lens you can see were they got onto the
gland nut inside..you would think they had tools that fit
its a little roughed up too. Although it sounds like I'm complaining
I'm not I figured it would get a little hands on being repaired.
But the service repair has me confused so I'm posting it, does anyone
know what the 2 reticle with the adj. numbers indicate ? It was to late
to reach them when I got home. Skid
 

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Perhaps those numbers are the number of clicks from true center in each axis as received from you? Meaning to achieve your "sight in", that's how many clicks it took to get there.
Maybe?
 
I called them back this morning to discuss
the repair. Looks as if the erector spring assembly failed.
The reticle numbers are before and after. 9 moa up / 0 windage
the second set are the travel adjustment after repair.
They told me to have at it and see if I can break it again.
Skid
 
Pleased to hear that Leupold took care of you, Skidmark. As appears true of most of the manufacturers supplying the shooting fraternity, they are a class act.
 
Once again Leupold bummed me out with their nominal magnification rating versus actual scope magnification delivered! I bought a 1.5-5x20, VX3. Problem is that it really is a 4.5x, not 5x as advertised. My bad, I trusted this company when I should have verified! Now the scope is off the rifle and will be sold.

Bad enough to get only 4.5x but the eye relief is only 3.6 inches which is short for a $400 4.5x scope?. Short on all features, as usual I guess? Maybe all this POS is good for is a rimfire scope?
 
Dang, Charlie, that's a bummer! I always thought that was the preferred DG scope, so I would expect more eye relief than that.

I already knew about Leupy fudging the magnification numbers, though.
 
I/ve used Leupolds for close to 70 or more years, probably sent 3 or 4 back because I shot the really big bores like the 505 etc., they fixed them and sent them back, broke one in half when a horse rolled off the side of a hill, they sent me a new one...Best guarantee in the biz.....
 
I am big time Leuy fan. They build quality & have excellent customer service/warranty!!
Most of the top optic companies carry the same type of Customer Service/Warranty (y).

Blessings,
Dan
 
I thought I would post a follow up on how the repair has held
up. So far I have ran about 20 rounds, a few to zero and
the rest to check the adjustments. I'm happy to report so far everything
is back to how it was but I have lost some confidence in this unit. I have
never done well with equipment failures but I do realize anything can and
will happen. I'm happy I was not on a hunting trip. I'm looking at some NF's
and a Kahles hoping my pockets will get deeper, but in the meantime I will be
happy with the lupy. It really is a good scope. And they really do have great
customer service. I'm certain the .340 would pound a 2K scope just as hard.
Skid
 
skidmark":1bu4tt38 said:
I'm certain the .340 would pound a 2K scope just as hard.
Skid

That is the truth. Glad you have the Leupold back, nevertheless. I love Kahles, but I don't know that it will hold up any better than did your Leupold.
 
Skidmark,

Sorry to read of the issues, here's info you may find helpful, and soothing.

Your scope was made around 2010 so it should have the Dual Bias Spring (copied from Burris) and should hold up. Prior to 2009 they used only one spring, and were definitely in need of upgrading other internals as many quick high recoil users found out they didn't hold up.

The 2 FOV Quad Pictures were explained, but lack certain definitions/functions.
1. These are simply #'s based on clicks....and ARE NOT reliable measurements of true optical adjustment range. One very few scopes do I use the clicks when testing/repairing.

Have had discussions, even bit heated debates w/a few scopey dopey makers.

2. Published adjustment range sales shows 117 MOA Up/Down-Left/Right....that's male bull crap>

1 MOA= 1.047" (0.026"/click)....per each 100 yards. So if I made 7 clicks the reticle should move 1.832" @ 100 yards. Their not built that well, and most makers inflate/blow smoke up Uranus.

Off that rant---your scope if optically balanced should provide 58.5" movement in any quadrant. 117/2=58.5. Yours is left & bottom stacked by the #64 & #63. Ergo any adjustments to the Right, and Upward are reduced.
Yours are not bad, seen much worse!!!!

Why should a scope in good condition, get serviced, and come back w/out a balanced range? Something's worn, off, and/or done wrong.

One thing most makers don't talk about is the reduction in optical resolution, and even the component life cycle when a lot of adjustment range is used in many applications.

Quick test of where you scope range is.
In a comfortable position,
Put reticle on easily seen object,
Secure rig from moving.
SECURE it from moving!
RECORD W&E positions
Turn W left watching the reticle movement....and counting the turns till the reticle stops.Record#
Continue to turn gently until dial stops.
Note the differences.

Return W to original position
Turn rightward doing the same as above.
Again note differences.

To find a more correct optic/mechanical center, start from one side where the reticle stops moving vs. turns and continue to the other side till reticle stops. Split the turn difference and turn back that amount.

Doing that takes into consideration, any stack up, and wear.

Typical 'shooting the box' has many areas of weakness, so here's a suggestion that will wring out the vertical internal tracking.

More later
 
Well wife is off to Alaska...and the Honey Do List will soon start. Oh, wait, silly me it never stopped. Ever! :lol:

Back to that "Tips & Tricks"

Windage is very much like passing gas from your Southern Rear Discharge Port. You know it's there, butT you don't know whether it's quiet, eruptive, moisture content, and last butT not the least it's aromatic properties. :oops: :mrgreen:

When it comes to rifle scopes, Windage should not be a major headache vs. Elevation which is far more readily, and easily determined, plus a scopes performance can be determined accurately at as little as 100 yards.

If Elevation has deviation, so WILL Windage, thereby call the scopes integrity into question!!!

Prone position vs. Bench is often more stable and produces better shots, and one big reason is the incorrect position/positions of the head, seating at bench, and poor rifle fit.

Not going there, but putting the butt stock in the crock of the elbow, thus checking for LOP is more male bull manure!

Vertical Tracking Test Procedure & Tools:

A quality, and heavy rest. Sand/lead bags, Lead Sled, etc. Putting bag weight on the rest will also help to stabilize. No, Nein, Nyet Bi pods!!!!!

Level surface out to target helps. with a nice ground cover. Not too comfortable so you don't fall asleep.

Target can be long piece of WHITE cardboard, or WHITE butcher paper 4'-5'.

Make black 1" dot couple inches from bottom.

If you have a big square, square/level the bottom w/a line below the dot

Make a square/level line near the top.

Securely mount target USING A LEVEL on the top line....if the line was square. Target MUST BE Level. If you trust your eye your simply playing w/a fool :shock: you can see in a mirror.

Using the level, draw a PLUMB vertical line from the dot center upward to the top LEVEL line.

Make 1" BLACK circles every 10" upward centered on the....PLUMB vertical line.

Double check. Any human fodder mistakes can lead to false blame on the scope.

ASSume a correct shooting position, which ASSumes you've correctly adjusted the scope reticle for YOUR eye. Whole 'nother subject.

At max magnification adjust for target resolution/focus by Adjustable Objective, or Side Focus if scope so equipped. If Mirage present, power down so Mirage is not in FOV, butT it's best at max because it pushes the scope.

IF both reticle and target are not SIMULTANEOUSLY sharp/clear, it's real simple. Clean the lenses, and/or, correctly adjust the reticle, and/or correctly adjust for Parallax.
You'll waste ammo, time, money and frustrate your self in you don't "obey".

Later,
 
Orange or green dots can be used if you have scope w/very high magnification. Just draw a small center dot w/in the colored dot to help w/aiming.

Make sure barrel, sling, sling lug, etc. ISN'T on the rest, or bag.

Before shooting remember to check specs on scope vertical travel....from the center. If it doesn't have 30", simply place vertical dots every 5".

Starting at bottom dot....shoot only 3 shots, make any Windage corrections needed.
We're looking for groups vertical accuracy.

Run turret UP 10" and Do Not aim at the next higher dot which was previously measured & marked.
Shoot another 3 shot group with hold point still at bottom dot
Do not make any changes
Allow couple 'cooling minutes'.

Run turret up another 10" and Do Not aim at the next higher dot.
Shoot another 3 shot group with hold point still at the bottom dot
DO NOT make any changes.
Allow couple 'cooling minutes'.

Run turret up another 10" and Do Not aim at next higher dot.
Shoot another 3 shot group with hold point still at the bottom dot

You'll see a definite pattern or patterns, which can be measured and deviation determined at various distances so you can make allowances by adjusting the Zeroed distance.

However, if you see POI really shifting, and it's not the mounting system, whatever rifle is resting on, your sure it's not you, then it's the scope.

To help establish that, simply do the above in REVERSE.

This is a quickie write up, so feel free to contact me, or post questions/observations whatever you prefer.

Don't be surprised if the POA & POI don't coincide.

Happy Bullet Holes!
 
guns & glass , if you dial elevation and also aim at the next higher dot you will hit the target way high . I think you wanted to say , dial elevation and keep aiming at the lowest dot . this way the bullet should hit the next higher dot .

I do this to align my reticle with the rifle bore . this way when I dial elevation I don't add windage . I don't add higher dots , I just use a sharpie to draw a plumb line on cardboard .
 
jimbires":3toaj2iy said:
guns & glass , if you dial elevation and also aim at the next higher dot you will hit the target way high . I think you wanted to say , dial elevation and keep aiming at the lowest dot . this way the bullet should hit the next higher dot .

jimbires - Thanks for catching the disconnect between my brain and fingers. Your right, I edited the post to reflect that. I should use Preview...and have read it.


I do this to align my reticle with the rifle bore . this way when I dial elevation I don't add windage . I don't add higher dots , I just use a sharpie to draw a plumb line on cardboard .

Intent wasn't alignment to the bore as that shows the POI results, but rather to wring out the scopes integrity. Sadly, many makers scopes have too much deviation and buyers have no idea how bad many are.

One critical error in many manuals, and still pushed by many so called Customer/Technical MisService persons is counting clicks or turns when recentering the reticle.
 
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